Small and charming hotel next to the Eiffel Tower with a strong French vibe, perfect for family trips
WorldlyNomad
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Gros Horloge, an old clock tower in the heart of Rouen.
Tai424
Rouen: Three Reasons Why I Wanted to Visit. Expectation vs. Reality
I'd long dreamed of seeing those half-timbered houses, but it never happened. For some reason, I was sure there were plenty of them in Germany, but I never saw them in the spring.
So, when we started planning a vacation in Normandy, Rouen became a must-see. Not only is it the capital of the Normandy region, but it's also the "French capital" of half-timbered houses. Just what I needed!
And then other facts began to fall into place: it's the "Gothic capital" of France, and it was in Rouen, then the center of English power in the French kingdom, that Joan of Arc was tried and executed on May 30, 1431.
We got to Rouen by direct train from Paris's Gare Saint-Lazare; the journey takes just over an hour.
I thought you could easily spend a couple of days in Rouen, with plenty to see and enjoy. But you can also plan a short half-day itinerary covering the main points (as we did, since there was another city, Dieppe, ahead) – and it will also be enjoyable and unhurried!
I sometimes feel like I like a city right away when I leave the train station. Rouen, on the other hand, is immediately very friendly, very welcoming, and makes you feel very comfortable!
Joan of Arc's Tower greets visitors literally right outside the train station. Many people think that this is where she awaited her execution for two years, but no. This tower is just what remains of the fortress where she was held, and that's all.
Half-timbered Houses
But half-timbered houses, half-timbered houses – that's exactly what I was aiming for! There are over 2,000 half-timbered houses in Rouen, and most of them are ancient.
I'll tell you briefly what half-timbered houses are.
The foundations of half-timbered houses, and often the first floor as well, are made of stone. Long horizontal beams are laid on this foundation to distribute the load, and the posts and vertical beams are attached to them.
The space between the beams is filled with adobe (a mixture of clay soil, straw, lime, and water, sometimes with sand or cow hair added) – but depending on the region where it was built, adobe can be replaced with sandstone, limestone rubble, and terracotta or mud bricks.
We're walking along the central pedestrian street and see a window open in one of these houses upstairs, and rescuers are unfolding a ladder. Like true tourists, we stop to watch. Time passes, but they're in no hurry. It was only when I approached to inquire what was going on that the rescuers explained to me that they were practicing "pulling a grandmother from an upper floor on a stretcher," and not a single grandmother was hurt.
Joan of Arc
As we remember, Rouen is inextricably linked with Joan of Arc—even the local candy is called "Joan of Arc's Tears." We couldn't help but notice the square where she was burned.
The square's dominant feature is the church. It's impossible to fit it all into the frame, but somehow it managed to fit. It's believed that the church was built to resemble a bonfire, but this hasn't been officially confirmed.
The inside, by the way, is also interesting—something between a cathedral (due to the stained glass) and a lecture hall.
Gothic
It's no wonder Rouen is considered the Gothic capital of France: Notre Dame is magnificent. And not just one; there are several cathedrals here! Unfortunately, we didn't get to see the main cathedral (it was closed until lunchtime on the day of our arrival), but even just looking at it from the outside was priceless!
We then went into the other two—they weren't gloomy, and, you know, somehow sublime. It's nice to be inside, even when you're absorbing all the ancient history.
Overall, I really liked Rouen; it even exceeded my expectations. I was expecting a simple city with beautiful houses. But here, the houses are more than just pretty, and the city is friendly. And there's also Gothic architecture, and Joan of Arc...
I'd happily return if I have the opportunity/need/possibility!
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