Cancela is an oasis in the heart of Northern Portugal; nestled between Guimaraes and Braga it is just an hour north of Porto. The national park of Gerês and the coastal towns to the West are also equally accessible on an hour so’s drive. Arthur is one of the world’s natural inn-keepers. He is warm, welcoming and does everything in his power to ensure his guests comfort and happiness. He seemed to switch effortlessly between Portuguese, English, French and Spanish, reflecting the journey of his own life before establishing Cancela 15 or so years ago. Our rooms were located in a converted 18th century wine store, were spacious and sympathetically converted, with comfortable beds and well-appointed bathrooms. The breakfast was a highlight, featuring unlimited strong coffee, fresh juices, local produce and fresh breads from the local bakery. Fruit and cheese both came from neighbours as did the wonderful jams. The swimming pool offers a fabulous respite from the August heat, fed as it is by an underground spring. It is surrounded by vines, and indeed a chief attraction of Cancela is its wine. We were treated to a complimentary bottle on arrival. The only sadness is that we are unable to take a few bottles home. Arthur’s approach to Cancela is characterised by sustainability: he wants to create a home for his family that both feeds into and is fed by the local community. Very grateful for our stay, and sad to be leaving.
