Located in the heart of Suwa, the area was once home to a hot spring, where people dug a well and discovered its miraculous liquid. The inn, named "Buhan," was founded in 1920 and has thrived for over a century, becoming a cherished part of Shinshu's culture. Nestled beside Lake Suwa, the inn is surrounded by misty waters and mountain shadows, its windows reflecting the changing light of dawn and dusk.
The inn boasts a large bath called "Dragon Palace." Its waters are gentle and mild, with a subtle, pleasant aroma. The bottom is lined with black basalt stones, and a screen of pine and rocks provides a tranquil atmosphere. Bathing in this water relaxes the senses, washes away worries, and creates a sense of detachment from the world, a feeling of serene tranquility.
On the first floor are dining areas called "Yugetsu-tei" and "Fūhana-tei," as well as a teahouse named "Yume Hanada." The utensils are simple and antique, the furnishings sparse and elegant, creating a refined and understated ambiance. Within the corridor hangs a painting of Lake Suwa by Hokusai, depicting vast expanses of misty waters with bold, unrestrained brushstrokes. Beside it stand ancient bronze artifacts bearing the Heavenly Stems and Earthly Branches, their patina mottled, exuding a solemn atmosphere. Also hidden are secret records from over a century ago, the ink still vibrant, the marks of time evident, along with various other treasures. Thus, its value lies not in its ornate decorations, but in its long history; its lineage is ancient and its origins profound, something newly built establishments cannot match.
The central courtyard is a Japanese-style garden. In winter, the dry landscape garden, with its jagged rocks, appears desolate at first glance; however, the warm lights in the corridors, reflecting light and shadow, enhance its serene charm. The lake-view Japanese-style room, with its simple tatami mats and soft lighting, is perfectly proportioned, offering a peaceful stay, unlike the eerie and unsettling atmosphere of many inns in the capital.
Breakfast is served in a separate room called "Yō," from which one can gaze upon the picturesque mountains from the railing. The dishes were mostly local flavors of Shinshu. The tofu soup was kept warm over a fire, its texture smooth and creamy, almost like bean curd. Attendants served me, adding rice or serving matcha, explaining its origins and how to eat it, their manners gentle and refined, their presence pleasant and unobtrusive.
During my travels, I accidentally lost my transportation card. The innkeeper, remembering it, waited until I entered the hall, called it back, and returned it—such was their hospitality. For a night's stay cost only 1300, I received the exceptional hospitality of this century-old hot spring inn, feeling right at home—truly beyond my expectations.
If I ever pass through Shinshu again, I will definitely stay here once more, bathing in its hot spring at night and enjoying its meals in the morning, to continue this unfinished connection.
Original TextTranslation provided by Google
