Pic South
February 14, 2026
I arrived at Baisha yesterday evening. As I pushed open the wooden door of the guesthouse, two cats were fighting in the courtyard – Yuan Yuan and Wan Wan, the housekeeper added.
Yuan Yuan is the American Shorthair with prominent markings and short fur, while Wan Wan has lighter patterns, long fur, and an expression that says, 'I can't be bothered with you.' When she saw me enter, Yuan Yuan glanced up, then lowered her head to lick her paw – meaning, 'Got it.'
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I was awakened by the light in the early morning.
Wrapped in a blanket, I went up to the second floor, and there stood Jade Dragon Snow Mountain right in front of me, its peak just kissed golden by the sunrise. It wasn't a harsh, glaring gold, but a soft, gentle glow, like freshly brewed honey water flowing over the snow. A guest nearby was setting up a phone for a time-lapse shot. I didn't speak, afraid of disturbing that flowing light.
Downstairs for breakfast, the housekeeper brought me coffee and casually pointed to the spot by the window – saying that the sun would hit there at that time, and the cats would surely go there soon. Indeed, within ten minutes, Wan Wan ambled over and curled up by my feet, spreading herself out like a cat pancake.
In the afternoon, I was reading in the courtyard when the housekeeper walked by with a watering can. He refilled my cup with hot water without a word, just a smile. This perfect amount of presence is more comfortable than overly enthusiastic greetings – you know he's there, but he doesn't intrude.
Yuan Yuan is more aloof, usually only appearing at meal times; Wan Wan is clingy, and at night, she'll wait at the staircase landing, letting passersby pet her head before letting them pass. The housekeeper said they are the guesthouse's official employees: one manages the sun during the day, the other the moon at night.
The most unexpected thing was the underfloor heating.
I've stayed in many guesthouses in Lijiang; some are beautiful, but you shiver when showering at night. It's different here; the floor is warm under bare feet, and there's no rush to put on slippers after a shower. The hot water is also fantastic; after a day of activities, you can take a shower with excellent water pressure, washing all the day's fatigue down the drain.
On the morning I left, Wan Wan uncharacteristically saw me off to the door, circling my feet twice. And Yuan Yuan? She was lounging on the sofa far away, lifting her eyelids – meaning, 'Leaving already? Okay, let me know in advance next time.'
The housekeeper chuckled, 'Wan Wan usually doesn't see people off. She must like you today.'
I know.
So I'll come again next time. Not for anything else, but for these two exceptional circles, for that refilled hot water, and for these two official employees – one pretending not to care, the other secretly touched.
Original TextTranslation provided by Google