Loja: A mountain city of two clock towers, where music is a way of life
In Loja's San Sebastian Square, there are two towers: one is the church's bell tower, and the other is a standalone clock tower, facing each other across the square. This image is my earliest impression of this mountain city in southern Ecuador. The city is compact, sitting at an altitude of just over 2,000 meters. It gets plenty of sun during the day and cools down in the evening, with little temperature variation throughout the year.
Loja is located in the Andes mountains of southern Ecuador. It is the capital of Loja Province and a hub for education, music, and festivals in the region. Locals love to call it the "Music Capital" of Ecuador. The city is full of people learning, teaching, playing, and singing music, with theaters, concert halls, and music museums all playing a part. The melancholic tunes of the pasillo are sung with extra flavor in Loja. Walking through the old town square in the evening, you can often stumble upon rehearsals or open-air performances. Titles are given by others, but life is lived by oneself; in Loja, music is more like a daily routine, not something put on display in a shop window.
The old town's houses, with their white walls and red tiles, spread out around several squares. The Central Square features the cathedral, which has a simple exterior. The two towers in San Sebastian Square chime together when the time comes, and passersby don't even look up, as they are used to it. The old town is quiet during the day; shops open late in the morning, and small restaurants only start to fill up in the afternoon. The market on the edge of the city opens before dawn, packed with fruits, vegetables, flowers, and snacks. If you want an authentic breakfast, just head into the market.
The real highlights of the trip are in the surrounding areas. A two- or three-hour drive north takes you to Saraguro, one of Ecuador's well-known indigenous communities. The Saraguro people dress in black—men in black ponchos with white trousers, and women in black skirts with silver pins—making them easy to recognize on the street. The town market is filled with hand-woven scarves, ponchos, and felt hats in deep colors, all with solid craftsmanship. The indigenous people here call the land "Pachamama" (Mother Earth) and have their own rituals for everything. Asking before entering a home or taking photos is a sign of respect for their way of life. Make sure the handmade items you buy are made by locals, so your money is well spent.
Not far outside Loja is Podocarpus National Park, where cloud forests and paramo meadows stretch out in rows. The orchids and hummingbirds in the mountains are what it's famous for. Some sections of the trails are easy to walk, while others require a guide.
If you head north to Cuenca, you will pass through Cajas National Park on the way. The road cuts through a plateau at an altitude of over 3,000 meters, flanked by rolling meadows and a string of lakes—there are over 200 of them. This area is a protected highland wetland, and the weather changes quickly. It can be sunny in the morning and foggy or rainy by noon. Choose the easier sections of the trails, and don't venture deep into the park alone. The altitude is high, so you'll get winded after a few steps; slow down and rest when you're tired. Bring a jacket and rain gear, and wear shoes that can handle mud. It's windy at the mountain passes, so don't fall behind. Register at the entrance, follow the marked trails, and don't enter the mountains after dark.
Loja's handicrafts are also well-established. Pottery, weaving, and silver jewelry are made in nearby villages and towns. The old town has small shops selling crafts, as well as markets, where prices are more reasonable than around the airport. If you want to bring something back, a hand-woven cloth bag or a felt hat is a great choice.
The food leans towards mountain flavors. Roast suckling pig is served with potatoes and corn, and snacks like corn tortillas and fried dough rings can be found on the street. Soups are mostly potato- and corn-based and served hot. Fruit stalls have fresh produce sold by the portion, which is inexpensive. Local coffee has a distinct acidity, making it perfect for breakfast.
You can stay in the old town or near the university. Nightly rates vary by low and high season, so book early for holidays. Taxis in the mountain city are inexpensive, and you can use the local ride-hailing apps. The airport is in nearby Catamayo, which is a bit of a drive from the city, so allow enough time for travel.
The highland sun is unforgiving. Above 2,000 meters, the UV rays are strong, so don't skimp on sunscreen and hats. Keep your cash in two separate places, as small stalls mostly accept cash.
Admission fees and opening hours vary by location. Ask at your accommodation before you head out, or check the signs at the entrance on the day; it's easier than looking through old travelogues.
When I got back and organized my photos, I realized I had taken a bunch of pictures of the towers but hadn't recorded a single piece of music, which gives me a reason to go back.