A Candle for Safety: Finding Solace at Sevanavank Monastery, Armenia

#kindnessontheroad Perched high on a peninsula overlooking the vast expanse of Lake Sevan, the Sevanavank Monastery is one of Armenia’s most iconic spiritual sites. During my visit last autumn, the wind was howling fiercely across the water, whipping my hair into a frenzy as I climbed the stone steps to the complex. Inside the ancient walls of the Surp Arakelots (Holy Apostles) church, the atmosphere changed completely—it was dim, hushed, and thick with the scent of melting beeswax. I had brought a small candle to light, hoping to say a prayer for safe travels. However, the wind kept blowing out my match, and the candle wick was stubbornly refusing to catch. Frustrated, I stepped aside. An elderly monk, his beard long and white, noticed my struggle. He approached silently, his worn leather boots scuffing softly on the stone floor. He didn't speak English, but he gestured for me to hold the candle steady. Using a lit taper from the main altar, he shielded the flame with his weathered hands, creating a calm pocket of air. He leaned in close, his breath steady, and finally, the wick caught. He then reached into his robe and pulled out a small, clear glass chimney—specifically used to protect flames in the draughty church—and placed it over my candle. He looked at me, nodded solemnly, and pointed toward the iconostasis before shuffling away. It was a moment of profound kindness that transcended language. Lighting a candle here isn't just a tourist ritual; it’s a deeply rooted tradition. I learned later that the monastery was originally built on an island in the 9th century to house monks seeking solitude and to defend against invaders. When visiting, remember to dress modestly—women should cover their hair and wear skirts (scarves are usually available at the entrance), and men should remove hats. Have you ever experienced a moment of unexpected peace in a religious site? The silence at Sevanavank, broken only by the wind and the drip of wax, is something I won't soon forget.