Liucai Guinan: Qinghai’s hidden treasure summer getaway
Since summer began, southern regions have gradually entered barbecue season. Yufan has been sharing great summer getaway spots, visiting Xinjiang, Qinghai, Hebei, Inner Mongolia, Hubei, Guizhou, Guangdong, Sichuan, Chongqing, and more. Honestly, after traveling across the country, if I had to recommend a place that combines cool weather and stunning scenery, it would be Qinghai. The plateau climate is refreshing and pleasant, and the landscape is incredibly diverse—deserts, grasslands, salt lakes, gobi, flower seas, yardang formations… all unfolding in turn, never tiring to explore. Within Qinghai, besides the vast Haixi region, there is a lesser-known treasure I want to highlight: Guinan.
Guinan County belongs to the Hainan Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture in Qinghai Province. Located in the upper reaches of the Yellow River, it is known as “Liucai Guinan” (Colorful Guinan) and sits at an average altitude of about 3,100 meters. It’s not on the Gansu-Qinghai Grand Loop or the traditional popular Qinghai tourist routes. Because of this, it’s often missed by travelers but has preserved a rare sense of pristine nature and tranquility. Once you arrive, you’ll discover countless hidden scenic gems: the winding Yellow River, the coexistence of plateau desert and grassland, vast flower seas blooming freely. It combines the vastness of the desert, the grandeur of the Yellow River, and the softness of the grasslands, while also maintaining rich Ando Tibetan culture. Guinan is a rare, off-the-beaten-path summer treasure in Qinghai.
Mugetan Desert—From “sand advancing, people retreating” to “sand retreating, greenery advancing”
Mugetan Desert is a rare plateau desert south of the Yellow River. Unlike the barren gobi deserts of northwest China, it features a unique “sand and grass coexistence” landscape where sand dunes and grasslands intertwine. Beyond the yellow sand, lush green pasture spreads, creating a distinctive scene. The rolling dunes shimmer golden under the sun. From a high vantage point, the vast sandy sea stretches to the horizon.
Covering 1,313 square kilometers, this desert area has long been known as “sandbar.” Historical records describe it as “hundreds of miles around, with no vegetation.” Decades ago, shifting sands advanced southward each year, swallowing pastures and farmland. After generations of sand control efforts, the once-devastated land has been reborn. Forest coverage steadily increased to 8.26%, and the overall grassland vegetation coverage reached 66.21%. Yellow sand and green grass now weave together, with vibrant life emerging from the barren land. This striking contrast is truly moving.
Taxiu flower sea—a purple dream on the plateau
Visiting Guinan in summer, Taxiu flower sea is a must-see. It’s vast and boundless, with the sky like a dome covering the land. Wildflowers spread across the plateau, with asters and gesang flowers blanketing the hills. Cattle and sheep leisurely wander through the flower sea. Distant mountains layer the background, with blue skies and white clouds completing the healing scene. A gentle breeze stirs the waves of flowers, and a faint floral fragrance drifts through the air, refreshing the soul. It’s hard to imagine that within the same county, the grandeur of the desert and the softness of the flower sea switch so naturally. Walking through the flowers, there’s no need to chase crowds—just quietly enjoy the unique tranquility of the plateau and encounter the romance of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau.
Gama Yangqu—the grandeur of the Yellow River’s second bend
Another highlight of Guinan comes from the ever-flowing Yellow River. Gama Yangqu is located at the border of Guinan and Xinghai counties, at the second bend of the Yellow River’s nine bends. From the viewing platform, the best views of Gama Yangqu are fully revealed to every visitor. The Gama Yangqu Yellow River grand bridge spans 2,418 meters, lying across the river like a giant steel dragon. The Yellow River rushes forward with the plateau’s strong winds, creating a magnificent and expansive scene that truly captures the majestic spirit of “the Yellow River’s water coming from the sky.”
A golden feast by the roadside—vast rapeseed flower sea
In Guinan, beauty isn’t just in the scenic spots but also along the road. In midsummer July, tens of thousands of acres of rapeseed flowers bloom brilliantly along the Xijiu highway. The continuous golden flower sea stretches like a woven carpet into the distance. A gentle breeze ripples the waves of flowers. Blue skies and white clouds frame the rolling green mountains, filling the view with dazzling gold. You can stop by the roadside anytime to take photos, each shot a naturally atmospheric plateau wallpaper.
Desert off-road racing—a highland feast of speed and passion
Visiting Guinan in summer brings an unexpected surprise: the annual Mugetan Desert off-road challenge race takes place as scheduled. The race uses the natural sand dunes of Mugetan Desert to create a dedicated track, attracting off-road enthusiasts from across the country. The event is lively, with cheering crowds, fluttering flags, Tibetan folk performances, and visitors and locals gathering in the desert to witness the race.
On the track, engines roar across the plateau. Vehicles dash over rolling dunes, sprinting, turning, and leaping, kicking up clouds of yellow sand. Power and speed collide freely in the highland desert. Skilled drivers compete fiercely, and every thrilling overtake draws cheers from spectators. This event is more than a competition—it’s a vibrant cultural and tourism showcase for Guinan, blending desert scenery, racing excitement, and plateau culture, fully expressing the passionate spirit of colorful Guinan.
Bonfire party and intangible cultural heritage cuisine
After the daytime excitement fades, Guinan’s nights are equally wonderful. Huge bonfires light up the desert, marking the start of a Tibetan-style bonfire party. Melodious Tibetan songs play as local men and women dance the lively Guozhuang dance. Visitors eagerly join in, laughing freely around the fire.
Guinan offers not only fun but also exceptional food. Authentic roasted whole lamb is a specialty. Slow-roasted over charcoal, the lamb turns golden with crispy skin and tender meat, sprinkled with distinctive spices that fill the air with aroma. Enjoying the tender lamb with butter tea, accompanied by the evening breeze, songs, and a starry sky, you experience the unique romantic atmosphere of the plateau.
Yufan tips
Transportation: Self-driving is recommended. From Xining, take the Xijiu highway directly to Guinan, about 250 km. The road is in good condition and accessible by regular cars. It’s best to rent a car upon arrival in Xining for a flexible, relaxed trip. One-way drop-off is free, so even on weekends, you can leave whenever you want.
Tickets: Mugetan Desert, Taxiu flower sea, Gama Yangqu viewing platform, and roadside rapeseed flower sea are all free and very visitor-friendly.
Itinerary: Depart from Xining, pass through Guide to visit Mugetan in Guinan, stay overnight in Guinan county town (hotels available in all price ranges), visit Taxiu grassland the next day, then head to Gama Yangqu Yellow River bridge for sightseeing, and finally go directly to Qinghai Lake or Chaka Salt Lake to enter the Haixi or Gansu-Qinghai Grand Loop!
Notes: Guinan’s average altitude is about 3,100 meters. Don’t rush to run or jump upon arrival—give your body time to adjust. The temperature difference between day and night is large, so bring a jacket even in summer. UV rays are strong on the plateau, so prepare sunscreen, sunglasses, and a hat. If you experience mild altitude sickness, prepare an oxygen bottle in advance, drink plenty of water, and rest well.
Best time to visit: July–August, when the flower sea is in full bloom and off-road races are held.
Epilogue
From desert to flower sea, from the Yellow River to grassland, from the passion of off-road racing to the warmth of bonfire parties—Guinan is like a thick book, with each page telling a different story. It’s not on popular routes but holds Qinghai’s richest landscapes and most sincere hospitality. Some places are worth the detour—the farther you go, the more rewarding the journey. Guinan is exactly that kind of place.