A slow journey through Laos begins, carried on the Mekong winds: from Chiang Rai to Huay Xai.
The true joy of travel may lie in the small moments of wonder that arise from slightly deviating from the expected harmony, and in encounters with scents and sounds that satisfy the five senses.
The route from Chiang Rai, a hub in northern Thailand, to the border town of Chiang Khong by bus is an excellent journey that stirs such wanderlust.
(160 THB to the border / as of July 2026)
The time spent watching the lush green scenery flow by from the bus window, and feeling the air gradually thicken as you approach the border, is already the prologue to the adventure.
Crossing the border to Huay Xai, a town where the flow of time changes
After arriving at the Chiang Khong border and completing the Thai exit procedures, you enter Laos by taking an international bus across the Friendship Bridge or a local boat across the Mekong River.
The moment you cross the border, the density of the air mysteriously changes, and you are enveloped in a feeling that the hands of time begin to move a little more slowly. That is the first magic of Laos. The town of Huay Xai (or Hoai Xai) in Laos, located on the opposite bank, stands quietly alongside the gentle flow of the Mekong River. Away from the hustle and bustle of Thailand, this town exudes a simple and laid-back atmosphere, making it a popular base for many travelers venturing down the Mekong River by slow boat.
Upon arriving in Huay Xai, the first thing you should do is secure your plans for the next day. Head to the boat dock and arrange your boarding pass.
Here's an important point:
You can purchase your slow boat ticket to Luang Prabang for the following day until 4:30 PM the day before at the boat dock.
To ensure a smooth travel schedule, it's wise to complete this procedure first thing in the afternoon of your arrival.
Once you've secured your ticket, you can then enjoy the sunset in Huay Xai without any worries.
The Mekong Sunset and the Beginning of a Perfect Night
Leave your luggage at your accommodation and stroll through the town of Huay Xai at dusk. In the unspoiled, local back alleys of Laos, you can feel the unpretentious daily lives of the people. The true joy of travel lies in these moments of experiencing the casual atmosphere of a town.
When you start to feel hungry, be sure to peek into a local deli.
Displayed in showcases and on large platters are Laotian home-style dishes made fresh daily. The aromas of herbs and spices gently tickle your nose, and everything, though simple, is incredibly appetizing. If you're lucky, you might even find charcoal-grilled fish emitting a fragrant smoke. The river fish, slowly grilled over charcoal, has a crispy, fragrant skin and tender, juicy flesh—it's exquisite.
And of course, an essential companion for a Laotian night is the well-known "Beerlao."
With its refreshing taste, yet uniquely smooth and rich due to the use of rice as a secondary ingredient, it's considered one of the best beers in Southeast Asia. Let's grab a chilled Beerlao, or maybe a few extra to celebrate the start of our journey.
We'll sit on the terrace of our accommodation or on the banks of the Mekong River, gazing at the mighty river flowing before us. Under a sky that shifts from orange to deep indigo, we'll listen to the gentle sound of the Mekong River, flaking the fragrant fish and taking a big gulp of chilled Beerlao.
"Grilled fish and Beerlao, enjoyed slowly while watching the Mekong River—perfect!"
It's a luxurious and fulfilling time, so much so that you're certain you've traveled this far for this very moment.
Towards the grand journey ahead the next day
Tomorrow, our slow boat trip down the Mekong River finally begins. It's a boat trip where we'll feel the river breeze, gaze upon lush green valleys and small riverside villages, and simply surrender ourselves to the flow of time. A perfect prelude to setting sail into a world far removed from modern speed awaits in Huay Xai.
Without pretense or embellishment, simply savor local food and beer while feeling the wind and the scent of the river. What more could you ask for? Cheers to the start of the best Laotian journey!
#ThailandTravel #LaosTravel #BorderCrossing #BusTravel