Two-Day Tour in Huining: Treading the Red Land, Tracing the Scholar’s Legacy, and Enjoying the Mountain Breeze
Located on the Loess Plateau in central Gansu, Huining has long been known as the "Key to Qin and Long." The ancient Silk Road passed through here, and during the Ming and Qing dynasties, it produced 24 successful candidates in the highest imperial exams and 115 jinshi degree holders, earning the county the nickname "County of Top Scholars" for centuries. What moves people even more is that in 1936, the three main forces of the Red Army united here, adding a passionate red hue to this scholarly land. A weekend is just enough to fully explore its red history, scholar culture, and mountain scenery.
On Saturday, let’s unlock the "Red + Cultural" route. In the morning, head straight to the Red Army Long March Victory Scenic Park. This park, built within Taohuashan Forest Park, is incredibly creative. Designed by Tsinghua University, the miniature landscapes bring 14 Long March landmarks like Ruijin Pagoda, Luding Bridge, and Snow Mountain Grassland into the mountains. Walking up the mountain trail, you can breathe fresh air while admiring these highly accurate replicas, as if completing the 25,000-li Long March in a fraction of the time. At the summit, the Three Armies Pavilion offers a panoramic view of the entire county, where the wind carries the weight of history. In the afternoon, visit Xinping Village in Dagou Town, home to the roots of Huining’s "Top Scholar Culture"—the Zhang Family Study Kiln. The earthen cave dwellings from a century ago remain intact, with sunlight filtering through broken window frames, and the walls seem to still bear the shadows of diligent students. The "Three Sus of Longyou" from the Ming and Qing dynasties studied and succeeded here. Don’t miss the nearby Zhang Family Fort, whose thick rammed earth walls are solid and sturdy. When the Red Army passed through, villagers lowered baked flatbreads in baskets to support the troops, quietly blending red memories with the scholar legacy. In the evening, return to the county town and stroll along the Han-Tang 24 Solar Terms Commercial Street to enjoy the night scene. The Han-Tang style architecture lit up with lights, walking along the Zuli River, the evening breeze is filled with a sense of comfort.
Sunday focuses on "Mountains + Folk Customs," experiencing Huining’s nature and local life. Set off early for Tiemu Mountain, Huining’s "natural oxygen bar," with dense vegetation and easy mountain trails. Along the way, you’ll see pine and pear trees, breathe fresh air, and listen to birdsong, washing away the fatigue from the day before. The temple at the summit is fragrant with incense. From this high vantage point, the countless ravines of the Loess Plateau stretch out below, giving a sense of vast openness that clears the mind. After descending, visit the Huining Education Exhibition Hall, which holds the secrets of the "County of Top Scholars." From imperial examination artifacts of the Ming and Qing to modern educational achievements, the "Three Hardships and Two Joys" spirit of scholarship is admirable—no wonder so many talents emerged here. For lunch, be sure to try local delicacies: crispy yet tender buckwheat rings bursting with wheat aroma, paired with a bowl of tangy sour water pickles, and soft, glutinous millet bread—authentic Northwestern flavors. If you have time in the afternoon, take a stroll around Taohuashan. The mountain gate inscribed by Mr. Zhao Puchu is especially eye-catching, and the ancient-style Kui Tower and Buddhist pagoda on the mountain are charming. If you visit during the temple fair on the 19th day of the sixth lunar month, you might catch a lively Qin opera performance.
Finally, here are some practical tips: For transportation, it’s a 2-hour drive from Lanzhou to Huining. Taxi rides within the county are cheap, and carpooling is available for trips to the townships. For accommodation, choose the county center for good value and convenient access to the commercial street at night. Don’t just focus on big restaurants—street-side eateries offer more authentic flavors. Mashed potatoes and spicy tofu dumplings are worth trying. Remember to bring your ID card; attractions like the Red Army Meeting Site and Education Exhibition Hall are free. Wear comfortable sports shoes for hiking in the scenic park.
A weekend in Huining offers the warmth of history and the freshness of nature, the elegance of scholarly culture and the charm of everyday life. Here, every step is filled with stories, and every bite tastes authentic. Such a deep and healing journey is definitely worth your trip.