Edinburgh punishes every poor traveler. My spending philosophy has collapsed…
Back from Edinburgh, I really want to give a heads-up to friends planning to go: Edinburgh is definitely not the “budget travel paradise in the UK” you might think! It’s not the kind of place where you get “hostels for £30, fish and chips for £8,” but rather where a Royal Mile hotel costs £150+ per night, Edinburgh Castle £21, Palace of Holyroodhouse £19—making both your wallet and mood crash. After three days, I felt like I ran out of money and energy—turns out Scotland can be this “money-burning and poor-traveler-deterring” place! 😱
Before going, I thought Edinburgh was the cost-effective king of “visa-free + castles,” but on arrival at Edinburgh Airport, the first day’s bus to the city cost £6 for the airport bus + £2 for the bus, easily over £8 per trip; the hotel near the Royal Mile was a regular three-star at £150+ per night, decent room but everything costs extra. 🏰
The most crushing part was the attractions: Edinburgh Castle £21 per person, Palace of Holyroodhouse £19, Calton Hill is free but very windy, lunch in the city with fish and chips + beer cost £20. After three days, attractions + accommodation + food and drink cost over £400 per person (excluding airfare), and my spending philosophy completely collapsed—Edinburgh is not “budget travel friendly,” it’s “budget travel hell.”
🏰 Attraction Recommendations (3-day itinerary, in the order I visited)
1️⃣ Edinburgh Castle + Royal Mile + St Giles' Cathedral (Day 1)
Why recommend: Edinburgh Castle is a textbook volcanic rock fortress come to life, with the Scottish Crown Jewels visible from outside for free. The Royal Mile offers cobblestone streets and tartan shops, full of local life. St Giles' Cathedral has a stunning stained glass dome and is free to enter. 📸
How to play:
· Morning: Land at Edinburgh Airport (EDI), take the Airlink 100 bus to Waverley Station (30 minutes, £6). First visit Edinburgh Castle (ticket £21, buy in advance on the official website), join a guided tour to see the Crown Jewels, Stone of Destiny, and cannons; 1.5 hours is enough, great for photos of volcanic rock and city views.
· Noon: Grab a quick meal at the castle exit, try Haggis (sheep offal) with Neeps & Tatties (about £15 per person), or buy bread and ham at a supermarket (£5) to save money.
· Afternoon: Walk downhill to the Royal Mile (free), stroll the cobblestone street, visit tartan shops and the whisky experience center exterior, 1 hour is enough. Then visit St Giles' Cathedral (free, suggested donation £5), admire the stained glass and thistle emblem.
· Evening: Return to the Royal Mile hotel, have Cullen Skink smoked fish soup (about £18 per person), enjoy the night view and get an early rest to continue spending tomorrow.
Tips: It’s windy at the castle, wear a down jacket; pickpockets are common on the Royal Mile; respect mass times at St Giles'. 💡
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ (5/5) — Castle + Royal Mile combo, expensive but a must-see.
2️⃣ Palace of Holyroodhouse + Arthur’s Seat + Calton Hill (Day 2)
Why recommend: The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the Queen’s official residence, a textbook come to life, with Mary Queen of Scots’ bedroom expensive but a must-see. Arthur’s Seat is a free volcanic hike with stunning views. Calton Hill has Greek-style monuments and free sunset views. ⛰️
How to play:
· Morning: Sleep in, then walk to the Palace of Holyroodhouse (ticket £19). Join a guided tour of the banquet hall, queen’s bedroom, and abbey ruins; 1.5 hours is enough.
· Noon: Quick lunch near Holyroodhouse, try Scotch Pie (Scottish meat pie) with cola (about £10 per person), or buy sandwiches at a supermarket (£5) to save money.
· Afternoon: Walk to Arthur’s Seat (free), hike the volcanic grassy slope for 1 hour, enjoy city and Firth of Forth views from the summit, spend 1 hour taking photos. Then descend to Calton Hill (free), photograph the National Monument and sunset.
· Evening: Return to the Royal Mile, have Cranachan raspberry oat dessert (about £12 per person), then cry over your wallet back at the hotel.
Tips: Arthur’s Seat is windy, wear non-slip shoes; Calton Hill steps are slippery; Holyroodhouse is closed on Mondays. 💡
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) — Palace + volcano worth the ticket price, but expensive tickets and food cost one star.
3️⃣ National Museum of Scotland + Princes Street Gardens + Scott Monument (Day 3)
Why recommend: The National Museum of Scotland has a free display of Dolly the sheep specimen that’s stunning. Princes Street Gardens offers free lawns and the Ross Fountain to enjoy. Scott Monument is a Gothic spire with an expensive ticket but amazing views. 🏛️
How to play:
· Morning: Walk to the National Museum of Scotland (free, suggested donation £5). See Dolly the sheep, dinosaur skeletons, and Scottish history; 1.5 hours is enough.
· Noon: Quick lunch near the museum, try Fish & Chips with beer (about £15 per person), or street stall Pasty meat pies (£5) to save money.
· Afternoon: Walk to Princes Street Gardens (free), relax on the lawn and photograph the Ross Fountain, 1 hour is enough. Then visit Scott Monument (ticket £8), climb 287 steps for panoramic city views.
· Evening: Have your last meal of Shortbread butter cookies with whisky (about £10 per person), then take the bus to the airport to end the three-day “money-burning trip.”
Tips: Museum is free but donations welcome; Scott Monument stairs are narrow; Princes Street Gardens can be sketchy at night. 💡
Rating: ⭐⭐⭐⭐ (4/5) — Free museum + garden combo, but Scott Monument’s ticket price deducts one star.
🍽️ Food Recommendations (based on what I tried)
Haggis (sheep offal): Small shop on the Royal Mile, sheep offal + oats + spices, £12 per serving, a Scottish specialty to try. 🐑
Fish & Chips: Near Princes Street, cod + thick fries + mushy peas, £15 per serving, very filling. 🐟
Cullen Skink smoked fish soup: Smoked haddock + potatoes + milk, £10 per bowl, warming but salty. 🍲
Scotch Pie: Street stall, flaky crust + minced lamb filling, £5 each, easy to eat on the go. 🥧
Cranachan raspberry oat dessert: Oats + raspberries + cream + whisky, £8 per serving, very sweet but addictive. 🍓
Shortbread butter cookies: Tartan shop, butter + flour baked crisp, £6 per box, a must-buy souvenir. 🍪
📝 Tips (few but practical)
1. Currency: British Pound (GBP), 1 CNY ≈ 0.11 GBP; exchanging in the city is better than at the airport, carry cash for small stalls.
2. Transport: Bus single fare £2, day pass £5; airport bus is expensive, book in advance.
3. Accommodation: Royal Mile hotels £150+ per night, hostels cost around £40 if you want to save.
4. Food: Fish & chips and meat pies are greasy, bring medicine if you have a sensitive stomach; supermarkets sell sandwiches to save money.
5. Tickets: Edinburgh Castle £21, Palace of Holyroodhouse £19, Scott Monument £8; buy tickets online in advance to avoid queues.
6. Language: English is common but Scottish accents are strong; use translation apps with pictures to order food.
7. Safety: Generally safe but avoid wandering alone at night; pickpockets are common on the Royal Mile, wear backpacks on your chest.
8. Mindset: Edinburgh is expensive, lower your “cost-effectiveness” expectations, focus on “castles + free volcano + museums.”
One last thing:
Edinburgh really isn’t a “poor person’s paradise,” it’s a “fish and chips smell good but expensive + everything is expensive” punishment city. After three days, my biggest takeaway wasn’t the beautiful scenery, but the sobering realization that “even £10 fish and chips can’t save your wallet.” If you’re poor, bring more money and visit fewer palaces, or you’ll really cry. 😭💸
(PS: This itinerary is based on my actual route: castle + Holyrood + Arthur’s Seat, three days tight but classic. If you have more time, you can add a Highland day trip, but car rental + tickets will cost more money.)