Ancient Riverside Town, Slow Time
Hello everyone, I’m your travel blogger Yanyan. Today, I’m taking you to a truly “living ancient town” hidden in Lüliang, Shanxi — Qikou Ancient Town. It’s free from the hustle of Wuzhen and the commercialization of Pingyao, with only the roaring Nine-Bend Yellow River and the echoes of 300 years of Shanxi merchants.
If you’re tired of crowds and want to find a place full of stories to quietly spend a day, then this 1-day tour guide with a budget of 1000 RMB per person is tailor-made for you!
🏞️ Why Qikou?
This place is known as the “First Town of the Nine-Bend Yellow River” and was a key hub for the water and land transport of Shanxi merchants back in the day. Strolling along the old street paved with Yellow River pebbles, seeing the original warehouses, draft banks, and residences, you’ll really feel like you’ve traveled back a hundred years.
Moreover, the ancient town itself is free to enter, which is a treasure for those of us seeking great value!
💰 All-Inclusive Budget (per person)
Item Cost (RMB) Notes
Main Transport (round trip to Lüliang) 60 Centered at Lüliang Station, shuttle bus round trip
Local Transport (scenic shuttle) 30 Mainly to and from Lijiashan Village
Tickets 30 Estimated for some small attractions like Xiwancun
Meals 150 Includes authentic Yellow River fish and local snacks
Accommodation (Kang bed experience) 200 Stay in a characteristic cave inn, not street-facing
Souvenirs & Miscellaneous 100 Buy some red dates, keep some buffer
Total ≈570 Plenty to spare!
🗺️ One-Day Highlight Route
Morning: Explore the Ancient Town, Touch Shanxi Merchant History
08:30 - 10:00 【Transport】Lüliang Station → Qikou Ancient Town
It’s recommended to stay in Lüliang city the night before and depart early. Take a shuttle bus from Lüliang Bus Station or near the monument, ticket about 15 RMB/person, about 1 hour ride. Enjoy the vast gullies of the Loess Plateau along the way, instantly uplifting your mood.
10:00 - 12:00 【Core】Heilong Temple + Ming-Qing Street
Start from the town’s high point, Heilong Temple. It’s not only the best spot to admire the panorama of the Yellow River Datong Qikou and the ancient town, but the temple’s opera stage is an acoustic marvel, known as “Singing in Shanxi, Listening in Shaanxi.” After visiting Heilong Temple, walk down the stone-paved Ming-Qing Street, check out the old vinegar workshop and barber shop, and feel the life untouched by commercialization.
Noon: Taste the Flavors of the Yellow River
12. 00 - 13:30 【Lunch】Yellow River Carp + Wantuo
Find a riverside restaurant and be sure to try Yellow River catfish or Yellow River carp. Though a bit pricey (about 80-100 RMB each), the meat is fresh and delicious, especially paired with freshly baked flatbread — a real treat. Also try the local specialty “Saozi Wantuo,” made from buckwheat noodles, smooth and tasty.
Afternoon: The Potala Palace on the Loess Plateau
13. 30 - 16:30 【Ancient Villages】Xiwancun + Lijiashan Village
Hire a small van or take a local farm tricycle (round trip about 20-30 RMB/person) to visit Xiwancun first, where you can see castle-style Ming-Qing residences and experience the layout of “a village is a courtyard, a courtyard is a mountain village.” The highlight is definitely Lijiashan Village! The painter Wu Guanzhong once compared it to a “Han tomb.” The layered, hillside cave dwellings viewed from the opposite mountain really resemble a pyramid or the Potala Palace — absolutely stunning.
16. 30 - 17:30 【Evening】Daydream by the Yellow River Bank
Return to the ancient town and stroll along the shallow Yellow River beach at Qilin Beach. The light is soft at this time, and the sunset dyes the Yellow River golden. If you’re lucky, you might see old boatmen and hear stories about the once prosperous “Qikou that couldn’t be fully loaded.”
Night: Fall Asleep to the Sound of the Yellow River Waves
17. 30 - 【Accommodation】Characteristic Cave Inn
It’s not recommended to do a same-day round trip; you must stay overnight! Choose a cave inn away from the main street, where you can stay comfortably for 150-200 RMB per night. At night, watch the stars in the courtyard and listen to the sound of the Yellow River — this is the soul of Qikou.
💡 Blogger’s Tips (Practical Advice)
1. Best Season: May to October is peak season. In autumn, the red dates ripen, and you can even experience date picking! Autumn and winter are windy, so bring a jacket.
2. Clothing & Gear: The ancient town and Lijiashan are all stone-paved roads and dirt slopes, so non-slip sneakers are a must. Sunscreen, hats, and sunglasses are also essential as UV rays are strong by the Yellow River.
3. Transport Notes: If using public transport, it’s best to ask your inn owner to book a ride back in advance rather than waiting roadside. The price is about 20-30 RMB to Lüliang Station.
4. Ticket Info: As of 2025, the main areas of the ancient town, Lijiashan, and Xiwancun are free. However, some protected buildings like Heilong Temple may have combined tickets or small fees, expected to be a few dozen RMB, so keep some cash or WeChat Pay ready.
Qikou is not a place for a quick visit; it’s for putting down your phone, sitting on the steps of Heilong Temple, and quietly daydreaming by the Yellow River. I hope this guide helps you. If you have time, it’s truly worth a visit! See you at the next destination~ 👋