Yichang self-driving tour: the grandeur of the Three Gorges, the Three Kingdoms period in Dangyang, the shrimp of Qianjiang, and a whole road of sweat.
Changsha at the end of August was still like a giant steamer. I thought heading west would be cooler, but August in Hubei was even hotter; even Hunan locals complained about the heat. But after six days and five nights, it was undeniably hot, and absolutely worth it: the Three Gorges were worth it, Qingjiang River was worth it, Dangyang was worth it, and even the crayfish in Qianjiang were worth it. Before setting off, I bought a Hubei Cultural Tourism Card for 300 yuan per person, thinking it guaranteed admission. However, it was like an all-you-can-eat voucher – it covered a lot of food, but excluded the truly expensive dishes; the Three Gorges Family Restaurant wasn't included.
Day 1: Changsha → Zigui, first visit Qu Yuan, then stay in the "Instagrammable street"
We set off early and arrived in Zigui in the afternoon. Our first stop was the Three Gorges Migrant Museum – a million migrants gave up their homes for the Three Gorges Project, relocating the entire county upwards. Each artifact and old photograph was heart-wrenching, showcasing the submerged ancient towns and villages. This sacrifice is more awe-inspiring than any scenery; I highly recommend bringing children.
Next, we went to Qu Yuan's hometown. The Qu Yuan Temple on Phoenix Mountain faces the dam, with its green tiles and white walls, the river breeze rustling through the trees, and the phrase "The road ahead is long and arduous" constantly on my mind. Zigui is the hometown of Qu Yuan and the origin of the Dragon Boat Festival; a visit here felt like a gateway into Chu culture.
In the evening, I stayed at the Qu Xiang Ya Zhu Chu-style Courtyard B&B on the popular Instagrammable street: white walls and black tiles, flying eaves and winding corridors, the lanterns illuminating a scene reminiscent of a Chu palace banquet.
The next day: The awe-inspiring Three Gorges Dam, the stunning National Highway 348, and the soaking waterfall. In the morning, I headed straight to the Three Gorges Dam. The phrase "a national treasure" truly came to mind standing on Tanzi Ridge. The Yangtze River in August is in its flood season; if the floodgates were open, the water would pour down like from the sky, creating a mist that obscures the sun—unfortunately, I didn't see that on this trip. From the 185 platform, the entire dam was visible; in the five-stage ship lock, giant ships were lifted up and down like toys—the sheer power of human engineering was tangible in that moment.
Although the entrance fee was free, the all-inclusive card didn't work for the electric shuttle bus and sightseeing bus. A sudden downpour soaked me to the bone. However, after the sun came out, the scenery was definitely worth it.
In the afternoon, we took National Highway 348, the biggest surprise of the trip—the highway winds along the Yangtze River gorges, with sheer cliffs on one side and the emerald green Yangtze on the other, dotted with boats on the river, and mist swirling in the mountains. Every viewpoint along the way was enough to keep you taking photos for half an hour. For those driving, avoid the highway and take 348; it's slower, but every kilometer is scenic.
The Three Gorges Waterfall offers a different experience—running under the falls in a raincoat! The hundred-meter waterfall poured over you, the spray stung your face, and you were soaked to the bone—it was exhilarating yet disastrous; a lifesaver in August. Raincoats were a must, and the electric shuttle bus was essential. The sightseeing elevator was too expensive, so we didn't go to the top of the falls.
We stayed at the Licheng Hotel next to Yichang Wanda Plaza that night, with a food street just a short walk away. A hot pot of fatty fish, the tender Yangtze River catfish sliding smoothly down the throat, the broth so rich it clung to the spoon; paired with a bowl of liangxia (a type of cold rice noodle soup), rice flour "shrimp" soaked in brown sugar water, icy cold and refreshing, a single sip instantly dispelled most of the summer heat. On a summer night in Yichang, this bowl of liangxia was a lifesaver.
Day 3: Tujia Ethnic Customs in Chexi, Half Folk Customs, Half Performance
The Chexi Folk Tourism Area focuses on Tujia ethnic customs: waterwheels creak and turn, oil presses, weaving workshops, and blacksmith shops line the streets, along with Tujia song and dance performances and a traditional wedding lament. The young women's clear mountain songs echoed through the valley, a true testament to their skill. However, the folk village nowadays feels somewhat like a "performance for you"—the wedding lament was performed with great emotion. The folk customs are genuine, but so is the commercialization; the tickets aren't cheap, so the value for money is mediocre.
In the evening, a stroll along the river in the city center revealed the breathtaking beauty of the Yangtze River at dusk: rays of sunlight pierced through the clouds, the river surface was gilded with gold, and cargo ships became silhouettes. Arriving at the Yichang Great Evacuation Memorial Park, a giant ship anchor stands on the riverbank, with the brightly lit Yiling Yangtze River Bridge behind it. "China's Dunkirk" was staged here in 1938; history and the present meet in the river breeze.
Day Four: The Paintings of the Qingjiang Gallery, the Spicy Dangyang Guochang Chicken
The Qingjiang Gallery was the most enchanting place of the trip. The boat glides along the river, and you feel like you're traveling through a painting—the river water is emerald green, a vibrant green, with green mountains on both banks like screens, their reflections broken and pieced back together by the oars. The boat reaches Wuluo Zhongli Mountain, the birthplace of Linjun, the ancestor of the Ba people, and the root of the Tujia ethnic group. Climbing the mountain under the scorching sun, the Qingjiang River makes a large bend below as you reach the summit; the vastness of the world is worth it. Complaints: Boat tickets and entrance tickets are bundled; the all-inclusive card only covers the entrance fee; taking the premium cruise costs an extra 110 yuan per person; the deck is so hot in the summer you could fry an egg on it.
Arriving in Dangyang in the afternoon, dinner was straight to Guochang Chicken: the red oil was bubbling, chili peppers and Sichuan peppercorns were plentiful, the chicken was stewed until the meat was falling off the bone, the numbing spiciness hit me like a ton of bricks, and I could easily eat three bowls of rice with the broth. In the evening, we strolled along the Juzhang River, the relaxed atmosphere of the small town was palpable. We stayed at the Haiyou Hotel, cheap and clean.
Day 5: Dangyang's morning drinks, Three Kingdoms period and ancient temples, Qianjiang's shrimp and cultural heritage
The people of Dangyang start their mornings with a glass of wine. We chose "Mao Junhe Rong Beef Offal," a local specialty: in the early morning, uncles in the restaurant would have a bowl of beef offal soup and a glass of baijiu (Chinese liquor), chatting and drinking, their faces glowing as they went to work. We followed the local custom and had a bowl—the beef offal was stewed until tender, the broth rich, and a sip of wine in the morning gave a feeling of indescribable boldness. This "morning drinking culture" is rarely seen elsewhere, and it was the most local experience of the trip.
After drinking, we went to Changbanpo. Standing on the ancient battlefield, one automatically imagines Zhao Zilong's seven charges in and out of Cao Cao's army—the place where Zhang Fei shouted to repel Cao Cao's army is now a park, leaving only the name and imagination to commemorate it. Guanling, however, is worth visiting. It's the burial place of Guan Yu's true body, one of the three major Guan Yu temples in China, with over 1700 years of history. Ancient cypress trees stand tall, and incense burns continuously. The legend of "his head resting in Luoyang, his body lying in Dangyang" originates here. The scenic area isn't large; you can walk through it in half an hour. The ticket price isn't cheap; Three Kingdoms enthusiasts think it's worth it, while casual visitors feel cheated.
The most unexpected part of my trip to Dangyang was Yuquan Temple in the west of the city—the moment I entered, I felt completely at peace. The temple is ethereal and elegant, with ancient trees reaching for the sky. The thousand-year-old ginkgo tree in front of the main hall was enough to keep me gazing upwards for a long time; the Northern Song Dynasty iron pagoda stands silently in the courtyard, its surface patinated by a thousand years of wind and rain; Pearl Spring bubbled and gurgled when you clapped or stomped your feet—the name "Pearl Spring Leaping Jade" is truly fitting; and there's also the site where Guan Yu, in the Romance of the Three Kingdoms, "manifested himself at Yuquan Mountain." An ancient temple nestles within a valley, encompassing Buddhism and the Three Kingdoms period—and—it's free! The most serene and captivating spot on this trip was completely free, while those charging exorbitant entrance fees were the most crowded and bustling—a contrast I'll remember for a lifetime.
In the afternoon, we arrived in Qianjiang and first visited the Cao Yu Memorial Hall. Located in Cao Yu Park on the shores of Machang Lake, it's the only museum in China dedicated to displaying Cao Yu's works. This "Shakespeare of the East" hails from Qianjiang, and the museum is filled with manuscripts and stage photos—the thunderstorms of *Thunderstorm* and the sighs of *Sunrise* both originated from this water town. A city famous for its crayfish, yet possessing such a deep cultural heritage—this was an unexpected bonus of the trip.
That evening, we headed straight to Qianjiang Crayfish City—the entire street was brightly lit, and every stall had mountains of crayfish piled up in front of it. The braised crayfish arrived at the table; breaking open the heads revealed plump roe, and the meat was firm and bouncy, bursting with fresh, spicy, and sweet flavors in the mouth. The shrimp of Qianjiang truly live up to its reputation. We spent the night at the Vienna Hotel next to the crayfish city, enjoying a delicious meal before strolling back to our room – thoroughly satisfied.
Day Six: A Thousand-Year Sigh at Zhanghua Terrace, A Fleeting Glimpse of the Metasequoia Avenue
On our last day, we visited the Longwan Archaeological Site Museum to see the "Number One Terrace Under Heaven," Zhanghua Terrace – the palace of King Ling of Chu, built with the entire nation's resources over several years. The terrace, ten zhang high, was the "Slender Waist Palace" named after the King's fondness for slender waists. The shell-lined road, drainage pipes, and palace foundations from over two thousand years ago are still clearly visible. Standing on the ruins, only the line from Wei Zhuang's poem, "The grass beneath Zhanghua Terrace is like smoke," remains – even the most magnificent terrace eventually becomes overgrown with weeds. However, for the average tourist, the site is essentially an archaeological construction site. It requires a strong imagination to conjure up the grandeur of its past. Making a special trip might leave you thinking, "That's all?" Fortunately, it's not crowded, cool, and quiet, making the ticket price worthwhile.
On the return trip in the afternoon, shortly after leaving Qianjiang, a straight avenue of dawn redwoods stretched into the distance—two rows of redwoods stood like sentinels, tall and straight, their branches forming a green corridor, sunlight filtering through and dappling the ground. Dawn redwoods are "living fossils" of the plant kingdom, and Qianjiang is their "second home." The Jianghan water towns and the gorges of the mountains possess two distinct qualities: one majestic, the other delicate. Driving through this green tunnel, a cool breeze rushed in through the car windows, seemingly leaving the sweltering heat of the past few days behind.
Upon arriving home, I did the math: the all-inclusive card cost 300 yuan, plus the sightseeing bus, boat tickets, and optional excursions, bringing the average cost per person to several hundred yuan. The all-inclusive card was essentially a "half-price card"; the weather was undeniably hot, like being in a sauna every day, and I went through three bottles of sunscreen; the crowds were also undeniable—queues at the dam, boats at the art gallery, tables at the crayfish restaurant—all required waiting. But was it worth it? —Yes. The roar of the floodgates, the gorges of the G348 highway, the greenery of the Qingjiang River, the ginkgo trees of Yuquan Temple, the early morning wine in Dangyang, the shrimp of Qianjiang, and the metasequoia avenue—after these images flashed through my mind, the heat, the queues, and the money spent all became forgivable.
This trip to Hubei, I'll definitely come back next time, but—in autumn. 😄
· -- Practical tips: The all-in-one card saves on basic entrance fees, but the Three Gorges Family Scenic Area is not included, and secondary purchases are generally at your own expense; it's recommended to drive the Yichang section of G348; don't miss the free Yuquan Temple in Dangyang; don't miss the early morning wine with beef offal in Herong, Guochang chicken, braised shrimp, and Liangxia and fatty fish hot pot; August in Hubei is like a sauna, so use sunscreen and stay hydrated during off-peak seasons.
Changsha at the end of August is still a giant sauna. I thought heading west would be cooler, but August in Hubei is even hotter; even people from Hunan complained about the heat. But after six days and five nights, it was undeniably hot, but also undeniably worth it: the Three Gorges were worth it, Qingjiang River was worth it, Dangyang was worth it, and even the crayfish in Qianjiang were worth it. Before setting off, I bought a Hubei Cultural Tourism Card for 300 yuan per person, thinking it guaranteed admission. However, it turned out to be like an all-you-can-eat voucher – it covers a lot of food, but excludes the truly expensive main dishes; the Three Gorges Family Restaurant wasn't included.
Day 1: Changsha → Zigui, first visit to Qu Yuan, then stay in the "Instagrammable street"
We set off early and arrived in Zigui in the afternoon. Our first stop was the Three Gorges Migrant Museum – a million migrants gave up their homes for the Three Gorges Project, relocating the entire county upwards. Each artifact and old photograph was breathtaking, showcasing the submerged ancient towns and villages. This sacrifice is more awe-inspiring than any scenery, and I highly recommend bringing children.
Next, we went to Qu Yuan's hometown. The Qu Yuan Temple on Phoenix Mountain faces the dam, with its green tiles and white walls, the river wind whistling through the air, and my mind was filled with the lines, "The road ahead is long and arduous." Zigui is the hometown of Qu Yuan and the origin of the Dragon Boat Festival. A visit there provides a glimpse into Chu culture.
In the evening, we stayed at the Qu Xiang Ya Zhu Chu-style Courtyard B&B on the popular Instagrammable street: white walls and black tiles, flying eaves and winding corridors, the lanterns adding to the ambiance of a Chu palace banquet.
The next day: the awe-inspiring Three Gorges Dam, the stunning National Highway 348, and the soaking waterfall.
In the morning, we headed straight to the Three Gorges Dam. The phrase "a national treasure" truly came to mind standing on Tanziling. August is the flood season on the Yangtze River; if the floodgates were open, the water would pour down like from the sky, creating a mist that obscures the sun. Unfortunately, we didn't see that on this trip. From the 185 platform, we saw the entire dam; in the five-stage locks, giant ships were lifted up and down like toys—the sheer power of human engineering was tangible at that moment.
Although the entrance fee was free, the electric cart and sightseeing bus didn't work with the all-in-one card. A sudden downpour soaked us to the bone. After the sun came out, the scenery was definitely worth it.
In the afternoon, we took National Highway 348, and the biggest surprise of the trip was how it winds along the Yangtze River gorges. On one side are sheer cliffs, and on the other, the emerald green Yangtze. Boats dot the river, and mist swirls around the mountains. Every viewpoint along the way is enough to keep you taking photos for half an hour. For those driving, avoid the highway and take 348; it's slower, but every kilometer is scenic.
The Three Gorges Waterfall offers a different experience – wear a raincoat and rush under it! The hundred-meter waterfall pours over you, the mist stings your face, and you're soaked to the bone – exhilarating yet disheveled, a lifesaver in August. Raincoats are a must, and you have to ride the electric cart. The sightseeing elevator was too expensive, so we didn't go to the top of the waterfall.
That night, we stayed at the Licheng Hotel next to Yichang Wanda Plaza. A food street was just a short walk away. We had a hot pot of tender Yangtze River catfish, the broth so rich it clung to the spoon; and a bowl of chilled rice noodles – tiny rice dumplings soaked in brown sugar water – icy cold and refreshing, instantly cooling us down. On a summer night in Yichang, this bowl of cold shrimp is the life-saving remedy.
Day 3: Tujia Ethnic Customs in Chexi – Half Folk Customs, Half Performance
The Chexi Folk Tourism Area focuses on Tujia ethnic customs: waterwheels creak and turn, oil presses, weaving workshops, and blacksmith shops line the streets, along with Tujia song and dance performances and a traditional wedding lament. The young women's clear mountain songs echo through the valleys – a true testament to their skill. However, the folk village nowadays feels somewhat like a "performance for you" – the wedding lament is performed with great emotion. The folk customs are genuine, but so is the commercialization; the tickets aren't cheap, so the value for money is mediocre.
In the evening, a walk along the river in the city center. The sunset over the Yangtze River is breathtaking: rays of sunlight pierce through the clouds, the river surface is gilded with gold, and cargo ships become silhouettes. Reaching the Yichang Great Evacuation Memorial Park, a giant ship anchors on the riverbank, with the brightly lit Yiling Yangtze River Bridge behind it. "China's Dunkirk" was staged here in 1938; history and the present meet in the river breeze.
Day 4: The paintings of Qingjiang Gallery, the spiciness of Guochang Chicken in Dangyang
Qingjiang Gallery was the most enchanting place of the trip. The boat glided along the river, and we felt like we were traveling through a painting—the river water was emerald green, a vibrant, almost luminous green, with verdant mountains on both banks, their reflections shattered and pieced back together by the oars. The boat reached Wuluo Zhongli Mountain, the birthplace of Linjun, the ancestor of the Ba people, and the root of the Tujia ethnic group. Climbing under the scorching sun, the Qingjiang River made a large bend below us at the summit, the vastness of the landscape—it was worth it. Complaints: Boat tickets and entrance fees were bundled together; the all-inclusive card only covered the entrance fee, and the premium cruise cost an extra 110 yuan per person; the deck was so hot in the summer you could fry an egg on it.
In the afternoon, we arrived in Dangyang, and dinner was straight to Guochang Chicken: the red oil was bubbling, chili peppers and Sichuan peppercorns were plentiful, the chicken was stewed until the meat was falling off the bone, the numbing spiciness hit me like a ton of bricks, and I could eat three bowls of rice with the broth. In the evening, we strolled along the Juzhang River, the relaxed atmosphere of the small town was palpable. We stayed at the Haiyou Hotel, cheap and clean.
Day 5: Dangyang's Early Morning Drinking, Three Kingdoms and Ancient Temples, Qianjiang's Shrimp and Cultural Heritage
The people of Dangyang start their mornings with a glass of wine. We chose "Mao Junhe Rong Beef Offal," a local specialty: in the early morning, uncles in the restaurant, with a bowl of beef offal soup and a glass of baijiu (Chinese liquor), chat and drink, their faces glowing as they head off to work. We followed the local custom and had a bowl—the beef offal was stewed until tender, the broth rich and flavorful. A sip of wine in the early morning gave us an indescribable sense of pride. This "early morning drinking culture" is rare elsewhere, the most local experience of the trip.
After drinking, we went to Changbanpo. Standing on the ancient battlefield, I automatically imagined "Zhao Zilong's Seven Incursions and Seven Exits"—the place where Zhang Fei drove off Cao Cao's army is now a park, where all that remains to commemorate is the place name and our imagination. Guanling, however, is worth visiting. It's the burial place of Guan Yu's true body, one of the three major Guan temples in China, with over 1700 years of history, ancient cypress trees, and ever-burning incense. The legend of "his head resting in Luoyang, his body lying in Dangyang" is said to have originated here. The scenic area isn't large; you can walk through it in half an hour. The entrance fee isn't cheap, but Three Kingdoms enthusiasts think it's worth it, while casual visitors feel cheated.
The most unexpected part of this trip to Dangyang was Yuquan Temple in the west of the city—the moment you enter, you feel completely at peace. The temple is ethereal and beautiful, with ancient trees reaching for the sky. The thousand-year-old ginkgo tree in front of the main hall is enough to keep me gazing up at it for ages; the Northern Song Dynasty iron pagoda stands silently in the courtyard, its surface patinated by a thousand years of wind and rain; Pearl Spring bubbled and gurgled when you clapped or stomped your feet—the name "Pearl Spring Leaping Jade" is truly fitting; and there's also the site where Guan Yu, the legendary figure from *Romance of the Three Kingdoms*, supposedly manifested at Yuquan Mountain. This ancient temple combines Buddhism and the Three Kingdoms period within the same valley, and—it's free! The most serene and captivating spot of the trip was free, while the most expensive ones were the most crowded and popular—a contrast I'll remember for a lifetime.
In the afternoon, we rushed to Qianjiang and first visited the Cao Yu Memorial Hall. Located in Cao Yu Park on the shore of Machang Lake, it's the only museum in China dedicated to collecting and displaying Cao Yu's works. This "Shakespeare of the East" hails from Qianjiang. Manuscripts and stage photos lined the entire museum—the thunderstorms of *Thunderstorm* and the sighs of *Sunrise* both originated from this water town. A city famous for its crayfish, yet possessing such a deep cultural heritage—this was an unexpected bonus of the trip.
That evening, we headed straight to Qianjiang Crayfish City—the entire street was brightly lit, and every stall had mountains of crayfish piled up in front of it. The braised crayfish arrived, the heads bursting with roe, the meat firm and bouncy, the fresh, fragrant, spicy, and sweet flavors exploding in our mouths. Qianjiang's crayfish truly live up to its reputation. We stayed overnight at the Vienna Hotel next to the Crayfish City, enjoying a meal before strolling back to our room—utterly satisfied.
Day 6: A Thousand-Year Sigh at Zhanghua Terrace, A Fleeting Glimpse of the Metasequoia Avenue On the last day, we visited the Longwan Archaeological Site Museum to see Zhanghua Terrace, known as the "First Terrace Under Heaven"—the palace of King Ling of Chu, built with the entire nation's resources over several years. The terrace, ten zhang high, was the "Slender Waist Palace" named after the King's fondness for slender waists. Shell paths, drainage pipes, and palace foundations from over two thousand years ago are still clearly visible. Standing on the ruins, one can only recall Wei Zhuang's line, "The grass beneath Zhanghua Terrace is like smoke"—even the most magnificent terrace eventually becomes overgrown with weeds. However, for the average tourist, the site is essentially an archaeological construction site. It requires a strong imagination to conjure up the grandeur of its past. A special trip might leave one thinking, "That's all?" Fortunately, it's not crowded, cool, and quiet, making the ticket price worthwhile.
On the return trip in the afternoon, shortly after leaving Qianjiang, a straight avenue of dawn redwoods stretched into the distance—two rows of redwoods stood like sentinels, tall and straight, their branches forming a green corridor, sunlight filtering through and dappling the ground. Dawn redwoods are "living fossils" of the plant kingdom, and Qianjiang is their "second home." The Jianghan water towns and the gorges of the mountains possess two distinct qualities: one majestic, the other delicate. Driving through this green tunnel, a cool breeze rushed in through the car windows, seemingly leaving the sweltering heat of the past few days behind.
Upon arriving home, I did the math: the all-inclusive card cost 300 yuan, plus the sightseeing bus, boat tickets, and optional excursions, bringing the average cost per person to several hundred yuan. The all-inclusive card was essentially a "half-price card"; the weather was undeniably hot, like being in a sauna every day, and I went through three bottles of sunscreen; the crowds were also undeniable—queues at the dam, boats at the art gallery, tables at the crayfish restaurant—all required waiting. But was it worth it? —Yes. The roar of the flood discharge, the gorges of G348, the green of the Qingjiang River, the ginkgo trees of Yuquan Temple, the early morning wine in Dangyang, the shrimp of Qianjiang, and the metasequoia avenue—after these images flashed through my mind, the heat, the queues, and the money spent all became forgivable.
This trip to Hubei, I'll definitely come back next time, but—in autumn. 😄
· -- Practical tips: The all-in-one card saves on basic entrance fees, but the Three Gorges Family Scenic Area is not included, and secondary purchases are generally at your own expense; it's recommended to drive along the Yichang section of G348; don't miss the free Yuquan Temple in Dangyang; don't miss the early morning wine with beef offal in Herong, Guochang chicken, braised shrimp, and Liangxia and fatty fish hot pot; August in Hubei is like a sauna, so use sunscreen and stay hydrated during off-peak seasons.