Ramsgate 🌊🎨 More Than Just a Seaside Town
We really enjoyed our visit to Ramsgate, but finding out about Vincent van Gogh’s time here made the trip even more interesting. It’s easy to forget that before he became one of the world’s most famous artists, he was once a young man trying to find his way in life.
Van Gogh came to Ramsgate in April 1876, aged just 22, and worked as an assistant teacher at William Port Stokes’ boys’ school. He stayed at 11 Spencer Square, with the school nearby on Royal Road. There were 24 boys at the school, aged between 10 and 14, and Van Gogh taught them subjects including French and German.
What I found lovely was hearing about what he did with the boys outside the classroom. He would take them down to the beach, even when the weather wasn't perfect. They played on Ramsgate Main Sands, and on one occasion Van Gogh actually helped the boys build a sandcastle.
In a letter to his brother Theo on 21 April 1876, he wrote:
“We go to the beach often; this morning I helped the boys build a sand-castle like those we made in the garden at Zundert.”
I love that quote because it makes him feel much more real. You can picture him standing on the beach with a group of schoolboys, building a sandcastle and remembering doing exactly the same thing with his brother Theo when he was younger.
He also clearly enjoyed the sea around Ramsgate. Shortly after arriving, he wrote to his family about taking a walk by the sea, saying simply:
“it’s beautiful there.”
He described the harbour, the ships and the stone jetties where people could walk, and said that further out, where the sea was more open, “that’s beautiful.”
When we were walking around Ramsgate, I kept thinking about that. The harbour and the sea are obviously not exactly the same as they were in 1876, but there is still something special about standing by the water and knowing that Van Gogh walked around these same streets and looked out at this same coastline.
He even made small drawings of the view from the school, including View of Royal Road, Ramsgate, showing how much the place caught his attention.
For us, this made Ramsgate more than just a nice seaside visit. We could enjoy the beach and harbour, but at the same time we were walking through a small part of Van Gogh’s early story — before the paintings, before the fame, when he was simply a young teacher living in a seaside town.
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Pleasing to the eyes and heart