In Fuyuan, the first rays of sunlight and the freshness of the entire river are captured.
Fuyuan: Embracing the First Rays of New Year Sunshine at the Easternmost Point of the Motherland
The snow in Zhaji Town had just been thawed into ice pellets by the -30°C winds, and the thermometer at Dongji Square had already turned red. People bundled in thick cotton-padded coats stamped their feet, waiting, when suddenly someone shouted, "It's out!"—The orange-red sun had just licked the ice surface of the Heilongjiang River, its golden light shining on the "Dong" (East) character sculpture, instantly casting long shadows of the crowd. A Hezhe uncle, holding a wine jug, smiled, "This first ray of light, those who have been touched by it will have a smooth year!"
The Hardcore New Year's Flavor of Dongji
① The Ritual of Chasing the Light: At three in the morning, tripods formed a small forest in the snow at Dongji Square. Cameras wrapped in thermal covers, lenses pointed at the frozen river, someone rubbed their hands, their breath steaming in the cold air, "Waited two hours, it was worth it!" As the first rays of sunlight climbed over the Sino-Russian border marker, the shutter clicked like popping beans. Someone pulled out their phone to video chat with family, "Look! I wished you a Happy New Year before you!" When the sunlight spilled across the snow, even the frost on their eyelashes sparkled like diamonds.
② Fishing Songs on the Ice Field: The winter fishing scene of the Hezhe people holds the secrets of winter. The steel shovels used for ice-breaking clanged against the river's surface. As soon as the net was pulled out of the water, the sturgeon's large tail slapped against the ice. "This fish can grow to a thousand pounds. Eating it during the New Year brings abundance year after year!" The uncle said, twirling a fish skin painting. The sun pattern embroidered on the sturgeon skin seemed to come alive in the snowlight.
Chasing the Sunlight Guide
- Must-Visit Spots: At the "Easternmost Point of China" sculpture in Dongji Square, the first rays of sunlight slant across the sculpture, creating a silhouette of the figure against the backdrop of the frozen Heilongjiang River and a Russian village on the opposite bank; near the boundary marker on Heixiazi Island, sunlight shines on the characters for "China," and footprints in the snow stretch into the distance.
- Hidden Activities: Learn to peel fish skin from a Hezhe auntie; the sturgeon skin is as soft as silk in your hands. "This craft has been passed down for eight generations; fish skin paintings can ward off the cold."; Take a snowmobile to the island in the middle of the river; the cracks in the ice resemble the veins of the earth. The guide says, "This is the Heilongjiang River breathing."; Go to the early morning market in Zhuaji Town; frozen pears soak in cold water, emitting white steam, and a bite reveals a sweet, icy interior—3 yuan each.
- Tips to Avoid: Cover your camera with three layers of thermal insulation (it will shut down instantly at -30°C); choose "Jiangbian Fish Restaurant" for a full fish feast, where sturgeon prepared three ways (braised, sashimi, and fish soup) costs 180 yuan per jin (500g), half the price of the tourist area; wear a long down jacket (knee-length) to watch the sunrise, and make sure your snow boots are non-slip (you can slide up to three meters on the ice).
A Culinary Journey on the Icefield
A Collision of Freshness and Richness:
① Sturgeon Soup (68 yuan/bowl): The fish meat is stewed until it melts in the soup, sprinkled with cilantro; the hot soup warms you from your stomach to your toes.
② Fried Willow Root Fish (40 yuan/plate): Small fish coated in batter and fried until golden brown; you can even chew the bones. Paired with corn wine, it gets more and more delicious with each bite.
Outfit Suggestion: Down jacket + fleece-lined pants + wool socks + Lei Feng hat; only your eyes should be exposed (otherwise your eyelashes will freeze).
Transportation Tips
By Air: Fly to Fuyuan Dongji Airport, then take a 20-minute taxi ride to the city center;
By Car: Navigate to "Dongji Square Parking Lot" (free, 4WD recommended in snowy weather);
Best Time: From New Year's Eve to the fifth day of the Lunar New Year, sunrise is around 6:30 AM, winter fishing activities are concentrated, fewer people, and the scenery is pristine.
As I left, the auntie slipped a bag of fish skin paintings into my bag, saying, "Carry the light of Dongji, winter won't be cold." Crossing the Heilongjiang Bridge, the sun was already high in the sky, the light reflecting off the ice so bright it was blinding. Suddenly, I understood the New Year in Fuyuan—not the warmth of staying up late, but the persistence of chasing the light, the vitality on the ice field, living each day like the first ray of sunshine, passionate and bright.
This Spring Festival, come to Fuyuan, let the first ray of sunshine of our motherland illuminate your path for the whole year. What time are you woken up by the sun on New Year's Day where you are? Share your thoughts in the comments!