Staying in a wooden cabin by the border river in Sunwu, the summer where you can see two countries at a glance is incredible
Guys, you won't believe this. I found a severely underrated summer getaway on the border of Heilongjiang—Sunwu.
This place is really off the beaten path. How off the beaten path? When I arrived in town and asked for directions, an old man looked at me in surprise and said, "You traveled all this way just to visit here?"
But it's exactly this kind of uncrowded place that truly deserves to be called "wild luxury."
📍 Where is Sunwu?
It's in the central part of Heihe City, at the northern foot of the Lesser Khingan Mountains, facing Russia's Amur Oblast across the Heilong River. The county covers 4,318 square kilometers, with a forest coverage rate of 48% and 710,000 mu of wetlands. Calling it a "natural oxygen bar" is an understatement. In August, daytime temperatures are around 23–24°C, and you need a blanket to sleep at night. Air conditioning? Not needed.
🚗 How to get there? Tested travel options
I personally tested two routes—
✈️ Fly to Heihe Aihui Airport, rent a car, and drive about 116 km to Sunwu, which takes about an hour and a half via the Beihei Highway.
🚄 Take a train directly to Sunwu Station. It runs on the Beihei Railway, over 500 km from Harbin. It's an overnight train, so you just sleep and arrive. The station building was renovated in 2021 and now handles an average of 600 passengers per day. It's a small, quiet station, and getting off the train feels like you've booked the whole place.
⚠️ Driving tips: This year, the section of National Highway G331 from the Xunke-Sunwu border to Heihe is under renovation and expansion, with full closure for construction from April 15–October 1. If you are coming from the direction of Xunke, you must detour. Check your navigation in advance so you don't get stuck. Provincial Highway S516 from Xunke to Sunwu is also under construction; it's recommended to come via the Bei'an direction for a smoother trip. The county is installing new energy charging piles this year, so if you're driving an electric vehicle, confirm the charging locations before you arrive.
🗓️ How to plan your itinerary? Three days and two nights is just right
▫️ Day 1 Arrival → Exhibition Hall of Evidence of Crime Committed by Japanese Invaders → Stroll around town
The exhibition hall is a 3A scenic spot and is free. It's open from 9:00 AM–3:00 PM in summer; note that it's closed on Mondays. The hall isn't large, but the content is substantial, featuring historical artifacts and scene recreations. It takes about an hour and a half to walk through the exhibition halls covering "Japanese Invasion of Northeast China" and "Sunwu During the Japanese Puppet Regime." Afterward, take a stroll through the town. This small city features a mix of old Russian-style buildings and Chinese-style courtyards, making it charming to just walk around.
▫️ Day 2 Shengshan Fortress (the main highlight of the day) → Border River Resort Area → Russian Customs Museum
The main event is here. Shengshan Fortress is a 4A scenic spot, 38 km from the town, a 40-minute drive. Adult tickets are 40 yuan, group tickets for nine or more are 30 yuan, and student group visits are free. It's open from 8:00 AM–5:00 PM from May to October.
This was originally the Huormojin Fortress built by the Japanese invaders in 1934. The main battle area covers over 100 square kilometers, with 49 sites and ruins scattered throughout the forest. Artillery groups, underground command centers, large concrete fortifications, hidden underground barracks and warehouses... walking inside is honestly quite oppressive, but the weight of history is something you can't get elsewhere. The entire scenic area is also a national forest park, with 13,828 hectares of forest wrapping around the ruins, creating a fascinating contrast between history and nature.
In the afternoon, head to the Shenglitun Border River Tourist Resort. Standing by the Heilong River, you can see Russian villages on the other side with the naked eye. When the smoke rises from the chimneys, it feels very cinematic. Then, stop by the Russian Customs Museum in Manda Township along the river. It's filled with nesting dolls, traditional costumes, and exotic handicrafts—great for photos.
▫️ Day 3 Morning mist along the Xunbiela River → Departure
Get up early and take a walk by the Xunbiela River. The morning mist on the river is layered, and combined with the dense greenery on both banks, the scene looks like a blockbuster movie straight from your phone. Pack up and head home.
🏡 Where to stay?
There's a cluster of vacation wooden cabins run by locals by the border river. The one I stayed in faced the Heilong River when I opened the window, with Russian forests and distant mountains on the other side. It's an old wooden structure with modernized interiors, and the floor heating and hot water are great. Sitting in the courtyard at night watching the stars, with the sound of the border river as white noise—there are far fewer mosquitoes than in the south. In August, the temperature at night is 12–13°C. Wrapped in a thin blanket, drinking a cup of hot tea, I felt completely relaxed from the inside out. My friends think I'm bragging when I tell them about this "living on the border" experience.
💡 Practical tips
· August is the tail end of the rainy season, so showers can happen anytime. Carry rain gear with you; don't find it troublesome.
· Mobile signals in border areas can be spotty, so download offline maps in advance.
· The town isn't big; for daily shopping, the central street is enough.
· There's a large temperature difference between day and night. Wear short sleeves during the day, but you must add a jacket at night—a thin down jacket isn't an exaggeration.
· Sunwu is known as the "Hometown of Large-Fruit Sea Buckthorn in China." By the end of August, the sea buckthorn berries start to ripen. You can buy fresh fruit and sea buckthorn juice at roadside stalls; the sweet and sour taste is very refreshing.
· There's also Angus beef here, raised locally. The meat quality is truly different, so don't miss it if you come across it.
Honestly, a place like Sunwu isn't for people who want to rush through tourist spots. It's for travelers who are willing to slow down, spend a whole day daydreaming on the border line, and be enveloped by both history and nature.
If you're tired of crowded, popular destinations, come to Sunwu in August. The wind here is cool, the sky is blue, and the smoke from the chimneys on the other side is a distant view you can almost touch.