Tsu City, Mie Prefecture: Are We Even Supposed to Be on This Road?! Enjoying Amago River Trout at "Ichinozaka," Deep in the Mountains.
A friend of mine suggested we go eat amago (red-spotted masu trout), so they took me along for the ride.
Off the Beaten Path
That day, my friend picked me up at my parents' house, and we drove for about two hours... It was far, so far away.
It might be my very first time venturing this deep into the mountains of Tsu City, near Sakakibara Onsen. Things got crazy right after we spotted the restaurant's sign... we had to navigate a road like this. If I hadn't been in a friend's car, I might have thought I was getting kidnapped (lol).
Ichinozaka
We finally spotted it! Making our way through the rain, we found several small, detached cottages and were led into one of them. Because of the rain, I completely forgot to take a picture of the outside...
Amago Fish Tanks
Right next to the building that serves as the office and kitchen, there were live fish tanks completely full of amago. Toward the back, there was another tank holding iwana (whitespotted char).
Iwana Sashimi
While they added charcoal to our irori (sunken hearth) and started grilling the salted amago, we kicked things off with some iwana sashimi.
It had a nice, firm bite to it and tasted delicious with absolutely no fishy odor. I was thrilled, since you really can't get this kind of freshwater fish down in Okinawa.
Amago Bone Sake
Since I didn't have to drive, I went ahead and ordered some amago hone-zake (bone sake) ~♪ Sipping on hot sake, which had soaked up all the savory, umami flavors of the fish, while sitting in the slightly chilly mountains was just the absolute best. Two flasks disappeared in the blink of an eye. *Blush.*
Butter-Grilled Amago
With the butter-grilled version, you can eat the whole fish right from head to tail. The meat is slightly more delicate compared to a rainbow trout meunière.
Salt-Grilled Amago
The salt-grilled amago is ready!
Slow-cooked carefully over a distant charcoal fire, the salt-grilled fish turned out incredibly moist and flaky. It was absolutely delicious!
It takes a bit of effort to flip it and drain the juices so they don't drip directly onto the coals, but if this is the reward, it's totally worth the hassle.
Amago Kamameshi
This kamameshi (iron pot rice) features a whole, small amago cooked right in. Once you remove the head and tail and give it a good mix, you get that perfectly crispy scorched rice at the bottom. It’s simply irresistible.
Amago Kamameshi & Salt-Grilled Trout
If it means getting to eat this combo, I'd gladly drive two hours to come back here. Oh, and their wild boar hot pot in the winter sounds amazing, too♪ I definitely want to visit again for another meal!
Ichinozaka
2080 Kaminomura, Hakusan-cho, Tsu City, Mie Prefecture
Phone: 059-262-3806
Hours: 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM
Closed: Wednesdays (or the following day if Wednesday is a national holiday)