Cheongsando: The Island That Makes You Forget Time Exists
🇰🇷There are over three thousand islands scattered across South Korea’s coastline, and most travelers never make it past Jeju. That’s a shame, because tucked away at the southern tip of Jeollanam-do, about 19 kilometers off the coast of Wando, sits an island that quietly earned a title no other place in Asia had before it — Cheongsando, the continent’s very first Slow City.
The name itself tells you everything. Cheongsan (靑山) means “green mountain,” and the island earned that name back in 1483 because no matter what season you visit, the hills stay impossibly green while the sea around them runs deep blue. Ancient Koreans actually had another name for this place — Seonsan, meaning “where a Taoist hermit lives,” because the scenery looked too beautiful to belong to the ordinary world. Honestly, once you step off the ferry, you’ll understand why they thought that.
Getting here takes some commitment, but that’s part of the charm. From Seoul, you’ll need to make your way down to Wando first — either by express bus from Seoul Central City Terminal (about five hours on the Honam Line), or by flying into Gwangju Airport and catching a bus from there to Wando (roughly two more hours). Once you reach Wando Coastal Passenger Terminal, ferries to Cheongsando run about six times a day, and the ride takes around 50 minutes. The ferry schedule can shift depending on weather, so always double-check before you go. When you arrive at Docheong Port, you’ve officially left the fast lane behind.
What makes Cheongsando truly special is the Slow Walk. The island has eleven walking courses that together stretch 42.195 kilometers — yes, exactly a marathon distance, which I’m told is intentional. These trails were originally just the paths that locals used to get around, but they earned global recognition in 2011 when Cittaslow International designated them as the world’s first official Slow Walk. Course 1, called Mihang-gil, runs about 5.7 kilometers from Docheong Port through some of the most photographed scenery on the island. If you’re visiting in April, this is where you’ll see those famous canola flower fields blazing yellow against the ocean backdrop — it’s the kind of view that stops you mid-step.
But Cheongsando isn’t just about pretty walks. Beneath the surface, there’s a story of survival and ingenuity that most visitors never hear about. The island’s terrain is steep, rocky, and the sandy soil drains water almost instantly — terrible conditions for growing rice. So starting in the 1600s, the islanders invented something extraordinary called Gudeuljangnon. They stacked stones of various sizes to create underground culvert systems that could both channel and drain water, then layered red mud and soil on top to form terraced rice paddies. It was a way of literally engineering farmland out of rock. This system was so remarkable that it was named Korea’s Important Agricultural Heritage No. 1 in 2013, and the following year, the FAO recognized it as a Globally Important Agricultural Heritage System. You can still see working Gudeuljangnon paddies around Sangseo-ri and Buheung-ri villages — they look like ordinary stone-walled terraces until someone explains the hidden engineering underneath.
The island also carries serious cultural weight. In 1681, a naval fortress was built here to defend Korea’s southern coast against invasions, and traces of that military past are still visible. Fast forward to modern times, and Cheongsando became famous across Korea as the filming location for Seopyeonje (1993), the first Korean film to surpass one million viewers in Seoul alone. Director Im Kwon-taek chose the island because he wanted a place that felt deeply traditional and untouched, and the winding stone-wall paths of Dangni Village delivered exactly that. The hill where the key scenes were shot still has a traditional thatched-roof house where you can sit, order some jeon and makgeolli, and just take in the view. Later, the KBS drama Spring Waltz and SBS drama Pinocchio also filmed here, each one drawing a new wave of visitors.
For the best experience, I’d recommend spending at least one night on the island. Most accommodations are clustered around Docheong Port — simple guesthouses and minbak-style places where the owners are genuinely warm and full of local tips. Wear proper walking shoes, bring sunscreen, and don’t rush. The whole point of this island is that speed gets you nowhere. If you can, hike up to Beombawi Rock for a panoramic view — on a clear day, you can see all the way to Jeju Island in the distance.
Cheongsando was designated part of Dadohaehaesang National Park in 1981 and has since been named one of the 50 most beautiful places to visit in Korea by both the Korea Tourism Organization and CNN. About 2,600 people still call it home, living at a pace that most of us have completely forgotten exists. It’s not easy to reach, and that’s exactly why it’s worth reaching.
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