Did you know that Japan has seven hells?
If you're visiting the hot spring town of Beppu, the 'Hell Tour' (Jigoku Meguri) is an absolute must-see attraction.
After a 20-minute bus ride from Beppu Station, I arrived in the Kannawa area. Immediately, I saw white steam rising from the sewers and roadsides, accompanied by the distinct scent of sulfur. It truly felt like the entire town was one living, breathing hot spring. 🌫
My first stop was Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell). The moment I walked through the entrance, my jaw dropped at the sight of a massive, cobalt-blue pond. It had the refreshing, beautiful color of a tropical sea, but up close, it had a mysterious, contrasting charm as massive clouds of steam rose from the 98°C boiling water. 💙
Kamado Jigoku (Oven Hell), located nearby, was honestly the highlight of the tour. With six different types of hot spring ponds, it was the most packed with things to see. The local guide gave a witty performance in Korean, blowing cigarette smoke into the ponds to trigger a massive eruption of white steam—it was incredible to watch! 😮 After the viewing, soaking my feet in the warm foot bath while eating salty eggs cooked in the steam and drinking a fizzy Ramune soda made all my travel fatigue melt away. 🥚
Next, at Oniishibozu Jigoku (Shaven Head Hell), the swirling gray mud bubbled up like the shaven heads of monks, which was quite fun to watch. At Oniyama Jigoku (Demon Mountain Hell), I got a thrill watching a large pack of crocodiles lounging in the hot spring water. 🐊
I took a short bus ride to visit Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell). The red clay makes the entire pond look as red as blood, giving it an intense feel, like a scene straight out of a movie. Right next to it, at Tatsumaki Jigoku (Spout Hell), I couldn't help but gasp at the raw energy of the geyser erupting right on schedule. 🌋
I spent about two and a half hours exploring all seven hells. It was the perfect course to experience the mysteries of nature—not just by looking, but through taste and touch as well. If you're planning a trip to Beppu, I highly recommend getting a discounted multi-pass and exploring all seven hells!
1. Sightseeing Course and Transit Tips
Recommended Route: Visit the 5 spots in the Kannawa area (Umi → Oniishibozu → Kamado → Oniyama → Shiraike), then take a 5-minute bus ride to the 2 spots in the Shibaseki area (Chinoike → Tatsumaki).
Tour Duration: Approx. 2 hours to 2 hours 30 minutes
How to get there: Take a Kamenoi Bus (No. 2, 5, 41, etc.) from the West Exit of JR Beppu Station and get off at 'Umi Jigoku-mae'.
Multi-Pass: They sell a discounted integrated ticket (approx. 2,200 yen for adults) that allows access to all 7 hells.
2. Location, Origin, and TMI for the 7 Hells
[Kannawa Area - Walkable]
Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell)
Features: The largest hell, featuring a refreshing cobalt-blue color like the sea.
Origin: Named for its sea-like blue hue.
TMI: The water temperature reaches 98°C. There is a greenhouse that grows tropical water lilies. The 'Hell Pudding' and hot spring eggs sold here are famous.
Oniishibozu Jigoku (Shaven Head Hell)
Features: A mud spring where gray mud bubbles up.
Origin: Named because the rising mud bubbles look like the shaven heads of monks.
Info: The gardens are beautifully maintained, and in addition to a foot bath, there are well-equipped day-trip hot spring facilities (foot bath/public bath) available for a fee.
Kamado Jigoku (Oven Hell)
Features: A 'gift set' containing six different types of ponds.
Origin: Named because steam from the spring was used to cook rice for offerings during the ancient Kamado Hachimangu Shrine festivals.
Info: Features a witty cigarette smoke show. The experience of drinking hot spring water and the free foot baths result in very high visitor satisfaction.
Oniyama Jigoku (Crocodile Hell)
Features: A place where dozens of crocodiles are raised using the heat from the hot spring.
Origin: Derived from the local name 'Oniyama'.
TMI: In 1923, it became the first place in Japan to successfully breed crocodiles using geothermal heat. If you time your visit with the weekend feeding sessions, you can see the giant crocodiles in action.
Shiraike Jigoku (White Pond Hell)
Features: A hot spring pond with a translucent, milky-white color.
Origin: The water is clear when it erupts, but turns white as the temperature and pressure drop, hence the name 'White Pond'.
Info: Features a beautiful traditional garden and an aquarium that uses hot spring heat to house large tropical fish like pirarucu.
[Shibaseki Area - 5-10 minute bus ride from Kannawa]
Chinoike Jigoku (Blood Pond Hell)
Features: Red clay erupts, giving the entire pond a blood-red color.
Origin: Recorded as Japan’s oldest natural hell, dating back over 1,300 years due to its striking red color.
Info: 'Chinoike' ointment made from the red clay is popular as a gift for its effectiveness on skin diseases and itching.
Tatsumaki Jigoku (Spout Hell)
Features: A geyser where hot spring water and steam erupt at regular intervals.
Origin: Named because the erupting water looks like a dragon ascending to the sky.
Info: Since it erupts every 30-40 minutes, a tip is to check the next scheduled eruption time at the entrance and coordinate your visit with Chinoike Jigoku.
3. Historical Background of the Hell Tour
Historical context of the name 'Hell': Before the Sengoku period 1,000 years ago, this area was a wasteland where gas and 100°C water erupted constantly, making it impossible to grow crops or for humans to approach. Residents avoided it, calling it a 'cursed land' or 'Hell', which is how the name began.
Birth of the world's first sightseeing bus guide: In 1928, Kumahachi Aburaya, the founder of Kamenoi Bus, organized the Hell Tour course and introduced Japan’s first female bus guide announcements, transforming Beppu into a nationwide tourist destination.
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