Summer in Huping Mountain: A Deep Dialogue with Nature
At five in the morning, while the city was still asleep, I was already driving towards Huping Mountain, located at the northwestern tip of Shimen County, Changde. This "Roof of Hunan," with an elevation of 2098.7 meters, appeared faintly visible in the summer morning mist, like an unfinished ink wash painting. As the prototype for Chen Yulou and Partridge Whistle's three tomb raids in Pingshan from "Ghost Blows Out the Light: The Wrath of the Yellow River," it is not only a paradise for outdoor enthusiasts but also the last isolated primeval forest in Central China.
Dawn's First Light: Exploring Canyons and Marvelous Waterfalls
Arriving at the entrance of Elephant's Nose Gully Grand Canyon at 7:30 AM, the parking lot was already full of self-driving vehicles. Tracing the stream upstream along the bluestone path, ivy cascaded down the cliffs on both sides like green waterfalls, some reaching up to 30 meters, glowing with an emerald luster in the morning light. After walking 1.6 kilometers, the Huping Flying Waterfall suddenly appeared with a roar—a three-tiered waterfall cascading down a hundred-meter cliff. The mist refracted rainbows in the sunlight, and slow-shutter photography from the second viewing platform transformed the water into silk, capturing the renowned beauty of "Zhangjiajie's mountains, Jiuzhaigou's waters, and Huping Mountain's most beautiful waterfalls."
The canyon trail is damp, so non-slip hiking shoes are necessary. Along the way, we occasionally encountered dove trees and yew trees, these rare plants, along with sedimentary rock layers, form a natural geological textbook. At the "Fish Cave" shallows, children chased wild wide-finned minnows with nets, the clear stream water washing over their ankles, the coolness permeating the heart and mind.
Midday Heat: Xie River Rafting and Tujia Flavors
At 11:30 AM, we moved to Xie River Rafting. The 22-kilometer river course includes over 50 rapids, with splashing water surging in the Dragon Cave Flying Waterfall section, making a waterproof phone pouch essential. If you prefer tranquility, you can stroll along the riverside path; in autumn, red leaves reflect in the clear water, but the green shade is already healing enough at this time.
For lunch, we savored a Tujia cured meat hotpot at the "Stilt House Restaurant" in Huping Mountain Town, featuring smoked cured meat from high-mountain black pigs paired with wild mushrooms, costing 50 yuan per person. From the window seat, we overlooked the old street's blue-tiled roofs, and the bluestone path of the Qing Dynasty "Ancient Sichuan Salt Road" stretched beneath our feet. In the teahouse, old-timers recounted the history of He Long's Red Army activities here, and time seemed to stand still.
Afternoon Clouds: Dongshan Peak's Sea of Clouds and Ancient Village Exploration
At 2:00 PM, we drove 40 minutes along a winding mountain road to Dongshan Peak. At an altitude of 1516 meters, the cloud-top grassland is carpeted with wildflowers in summer, and shepherds herd black sheep through the mist, like a fairyland. The viewing platform offers an excellent vista; on clear days, you can see the mountains of Wufeng County, Hubei, in the distance. At sunset, the sea of clouds is gilded with gold, and the red-bellied tragopan occasionally appears at the edge of the fir forest; one needs to stand still for ten minutes to have a chance to encounter them.
Afterward, we visited Pingfeng Village, where we experienced Tujia weaving at a "Xilankapu" brocade workshop, with an old artisan teaching us to identify the "Taitaihua" pattern. A 20-minute walk along a bluestone path behind the village leads to a hidden viewing platform, offering a panoramic view of the Xie River's great bend; from an aerial perspective, the river winds around the mountains like a green ribbon.
Dusk Descends: Main Peak Ascent and Stargazing Camping
If you have ample physical strength, you can challenge the main peak ascent. It's a 1.5-hour hike from the mountainside to the viewing platform at 2098 meters above sea level. A windproof jacket is necessary for the climb. From the summit, you can overlook the sea of clouds at the border of Hunan and Hubei; when visibility is good, you can see layers of mountains. After descending, set up tents at the Stargazing Camping Base, where children can burn off energy to their heart's content on the zipline and trampoline. At night, lying on the grass, you can count the stars, with the Milky Way clearly visible.
Overnight in the Mountains: Tujia Charm and Ecological Protection
We chose to stay overnight at the "Poetry and Wine Pastoral Homestay Hotel," which opened in 2024 and features garden landscapes and camping experiences. The next morning, we woke up to the sound of birds, and the tea-picking activity offered by the homestay allowed us to get close to nature. If convenience is preferred, the "Yunxi Residence" guesthouse in Huping Mountain Town offers free rafting shuttle service, with a highly cost-effective price of 150 yuan/night.
The trip to Huping Mountain was a deep dialogue with nature. Here, the roar of the canyon, the surging sea of clouds, the smoke from Tujia kitchens, and the whispers of the starry sky intertwine into a poem, allowing one, amidst the fatigue of hiking, to understand the lament of the Qing Dynasty poet, "Huping's beautiful scenery is endless"—its wild beauty needs to be measured by footsteps, while its gentle core is hidden in the rising steam of every bowl of cured meat hotpot.
I. Basic Information about the Scenic Area
Detailed Address
Huping Mountain Town, Shimen County, Changde City, Hunan Province (north bordering Wufeng and Hefeng Counties, Hubei).
Ticket Prices
· Original Ecological Tour (Canyon + Core Scenic Area): 80 yuan/person.
· Hunan's Roof Rafting: 168 yuan/person.
· Free admission: Children under 1.2 meters, seniors over 70, journalists/tour guides; seniors aged 60-70 pay 30 yuan.
· Partially free: Huanghugang Bridge, Shengtou Suspension Bridge, Yisha Old Street.
Best Time to Visit
· May-October: Waterfalls have the largest flow, forests are lush, prime time for summer escape and water activities;
· March-May: High-mountain rhododendrons and dove trees (dove flowers) are in full bloom, a secret floral wonderland;
· September-November: Colorful forests cover the mountains, high probability of sea of clouds, best for photography;
· December-February: High-mountain rime and snowscapes, niche and serene (beware of cold).
II. Recommended Local Delicacies
· Tujia Cured Meat: Smoky and mellow, perfect with stir-fried bamboo shoots/stewed potatoes;
· High-Mountain Wild Vegetables: Ferns, wild celery, toon, stir-fried/cold tossed;
· Shimen Fatty Intestines: Local specialty, spicy and satisfying;
· Clear Water River Fish: Wild fish from Xie River, fresh and boneless;
· Corn Buns (Baogu Baba): Made from corn, soft, glutinous, and sweet.