Sacred Lake Yamdrok Yumtso, overlooking from Rurila Observation Deck
Yamdrok Yumtso, at an altitude of 4,441 meters, is known as "Yamdrok Lake" for short. Its name means "Jade Lake" in Tibetan. Along with Namtso and Manasarovar, it is one of the 3 sacred lakes of Tibet. It is the largest closed inland lake in the southern Qinghai-Tibet Plateau. To the Tibetan people, it is the "turquoise earring dropped by a goddess." A folk song praises Yamdrok Yumtso: "A fairyland in heaven, Yamdrok on earth. Stars in the sky, cattle and sheep by the lake." On a map, Yamdrok Lake winds for hundreds of kilometers, resembling coral with its irregular shape and many branches. It is actually composed of 4 lakes (Yamdrok, Kongmu, Chen, and Bajiu) and contains 21 islands of various sizes. No matter which angle you view it from, you cannot see its entirety. The blue of Yamdrok Yumtso is breathtaking. Under the sunlight at different times, it displays different, rich layers of blue. Viewed from the surrounding mountains, it looks like a sapphire embedded in the mountains... That blue is deeper than the ocean and purer than a gemstone, striking the soul in an instant.
There are many observation decks along Yamdrok Lake. Among the 5 on the standard route, the Langbuqi Observation Deck is the best, where you can also interact with animals like Tibetan mastiffs, lambs, and yaks. Overlooking the lake from Langbuqi, it looks like a long blue ribbon. The niche route focuses on the Rurila Observation Deck and Ritro Temple. Looking out from Ritro Temple, it feels like the end of a blue world. From the Rurila Observation Deck, the lake water is soft and azure, with thousands of islands competing in beauty.
We navigated directly to the Rurila Observation Deck. After passing Gonggar Airport, we traveled along country roads, village roads, and a winding mountain road with many twists and turns. We crossed the Kaqingla Mountain and finally arrived at the Rurila Observation Deck at an altitude of 4,960 meters. The view from the top is expansive. Overlooking the entire Yamdrok Lake, the scene is stunning. The lake surface is like a mirror, reflecting the blue sky and white clouds. The Kula Kangri and Noijin Kangsang peaks surround the horizon, with clouds and mountains blending into one. The lakes separated by islands look like dazzling sapphires embedded in the mountains. On a small island in the lake stands the loneliest temple in the world, breathtakingly beautiful. Compared to other observation decks, this is undoubtedly the most beautiful place to view Yamdrok Lake. Standing here, it feels like being above the clouds.
Ritro Temple, at an altitude of 4,500 meters, means "stone on the mountain." Surrounded by water on 3 sides, it is 1 island with 1 temple. A yellow and white temple stands independently on the mountaintop, the only building on the isolated island. The light brown mountains wrap around the azure Yamdrok Lake, and the azure lake wraps around the lonely temple. Small and floating on the lake, it looks like a lone boat in the ocean. Drone photography can showcase its beauty from more angles. It is not a ruin, but a living temple. One monk, one life, changing seasons, and the baptism of wind and snow. The monk says it enshrines a divine stone that fell from the sky, which can dispel worldly diseases. For 700 years, they have silently guarded this quiet and mysterious island, much like the poem by Tsangyang Gyatso: "You guard the vast world, and I guard you." Near Ritro Temple, you can walk directly to the edge of Yamdrok Lake, touch the clear, azure, and vast water, and interact closely with seagulls. There are countless small Mani piles on the shore, and the sunlight reflects on the lake, shimmering like gold.
We originally planned to continue around the lake to explore the "Heart of Yamdrok" or visit the more distant Pumoyum Co. We even prepared our border defense permits. Unfortunately, my friend suddenly suffered from altitude sickness at the Rurila Observation Deck. Even after we descended to a lower altitude, there was no improvement. In a panic, we rushed into the nearby Zhangda Township. With the help of township government staff and doctors at the health center, my friend finally recovered after 30 minutes of intensive oxygen therapy. The beautiful Dolma from the health center, who was originally helping Tibetan compatriots with physical examinations in the township, rushed back to the clinic to carefully accompany and care for us. She even prepared hot water for us, which warmed our hearts.
Although the altitude sickness alert was temporarily lifted, we dared not be careless. After discussion, we decided to end the trip. We changed our tickets that day to put my friend on a train to leave the high-altitude area as soon as possible. This first trip to Tibet can only be described as a brief encounter. It is impossible not to have regrets: the sacred and pure Namtso, the dreamy blue ice of Pumoyum Co, the towering and majestic Mount Everest, the mysterious and unpredictable Ngari region... When we are no longer afraid of altitude sickness, we will come back to continue conquering you!