Better than Jiangnan itself
Xi Feng Water Town Travelogue: A Dream of Jiangnan Through a Thousand Years
In April, Xiaogan is full of spring vitality. A friend said, "Let's go to Xi Feng Water Town; there you will find the Jiangnan you seek." So, on a weekend morning, I drove to this AAA-rated tourist resort located in Xiaonan District, covering a planned area of 2,000 acres.
First Impressions of the Water Town: Every Bridge and Waterway a Painting
As soon as the car stopped, a long ink painting unfolded before my eyes. Hui-style buildings with white walls and black tiles line the water, winding bluestone paths stretch ahead, and several black-awning boats quietly dock at the pier. The boatwomen, wearing bamboo hats, were tidying the oars. On the entrance archway, the four large characters "Xi Feng Water Town" gleamed warmly in the morning light.
After buying tickets (about 60 yuan), the first thing that caught my eye was a wide river channel—the core of the resort called the "Ten-Mile Long River." The water was crystal clear, reflecting the weeping willows and horse-head walls on both banks. I chose to take a boat tour; the boatwoman rowed rhythmically and slowly, the wooden oars slicing the water with a gentle "ei nai" sound.
"This river is living water, connected to the outside lakes," the boatwoman explained in Mandarin with a Xiaogan accent. "In spring, you watch the willows; in summer, admire the lotus; in autumn, see the reed flowers; in winter, the frost-covered trees. Each season has its charm."
A Blend of History and Legend
After disembarking, I strolled along the riverbank. Xi Feng Water Town is designed around the theme of "historical celebrity culture," and every scene here seems to tell a story.
Feng Yi Terrace was the first place that made me pause. This three-story ancient-style pavilion is said to commemorate a historical figure associated with the phoenix. From the top floor, the entire water town is visible—the river winding like a ribbon, buildings like pearls, and the distant fields blending harmoniously with nearby pavilions and towers, composing a pastoral symphony.
Next to it, the Filial Piety Culture Corridor deepened my sense of this land’s character. The corridor, about 100 meters long, features stone-carved murals on both sides telling local filial piety stories such as "Dong Yong Selling Himself to Bury His Father" and "Huang Xiang Warming the Bed." A mother softly explained to her child, "Look, Huang Xiang knew to warm his father's bed at nine years old..." The child’s eyes widened, nodding with partial understanding.
Eighteen Scenic Spots: Every Step a Different View
The brochure said, "Ten-Mile Long River, Eighteen Scenic Spots," so I decided to explore them all.
The Lotus Breeze Pavilion stands in the middle of a lotus pond. Although it was not yet midsummer, the lotus leaves already covered the water, with a few dragonflies perched atop. The pavilion is open on all sides; sitting inside, a gentle breeze brings a faint scent of lotus.
The Curved Water Flowing Wine Garden is modeled after the elegant Orchid Pavilion gathering. An artificial stream winds through bamboo groves, with stone benches and tables scattered along the banks. Imagining ancient scholars drinking and composing poetry here, letting their cups float downstream to whoever they wished to inspire—such refined elegance is a luxury in modern society.
The greatest surprise was the ancient opera stage. I happened to catch a Chu opera performance. The actors wore splendid costumes, their singing high-pitched and melodious. Dozens of elderly people sat below, some softly humming along, others tapping rhythm with closed eyes. Though I couldn’t understand the lyrics, the melody’s depth and emotion touched the heart.
The City That Never Sleeps: Where Classic Meets Modern
After a tiring day, I had a simple meal at a restaurant inside the scenic area. Xiaogan rice wine was a must-try—rich and sweet; paired with a few rustic stir-fried dishes, simple yet delicious.
At dusk, the lights gradually came on—the "City That Never Sleeps" mode of Xi Feng Water Town began.
The white walls and black tiles of daytime transformed under the lights: warm yellow outline lights traced the flying eaves and upturned corners of the buildings, red lanterns reflected in the water, swaying with the waves. Several boats decorated with colorful lights floated on the river, and the sound of guzheng music drifted from them.
The water screen movie was the highlight of the night. At 8 p.m., on the largest water surface, a 30-meter-wide water screen rose, and laser projections began telling a legend about the phoenix. Water screen, lights, music, and fountains intertwined, creating a stunning spectacle. The audience raised their phones to capture this magical moment.
Accommodation Experience: Sleeping by the Water
I chose to stay overnight at a water town inn within the scenic area. The room was decorated in Chinese style, with carved wooden windows facing the river. At night, when it quieted down, I could hear the gentle flow of water and occasional frog croaks.
The next morning, I woke to birdsong. Opening the window, a thin mist floated over the river, and the willows on the opposite bank looked like smoke and fog. Several early-rising photographers had already set up tripods, waiting for the first rays of sunlight to pierce the morning mist.
Practical Information and Reflections
Transportation: About a 40-minute drive from Xiaogan city center; just navigate to "Xi Feng Water Town Tourist Resort." The parking lot is spacious and free.
Tickets: Adult tickets 60 yuan, children/seniors 30 yuan. Boat rides cost extra (30 yuan per person).
Best time to visit: Spring and autumn. Summer is good for lotus viewing but hot; winter is quiet and uniquely serene.
Recommended visit duration: One day is enough, but to experience both night and morning scenes, staying overnight is suggested.
As I left Xi Feng Water Town, I looked back at the white walls and black tiles. It may not have the fame of Zhouzhuang or Wuzhen, but that means less commercial noise and more simplicity and tranquility. It is not just a tourist spot but a dream of Jiangnan—where history and modernity, nature and culture, bustle and peace achieve a delicate balance.
If you are tired of the city's crowd and restlessness, consider staying here for a day or two. Cruise by boat during the day, sleep by the water at night, slow down time, and return to those "slow old days." After all, some scenery requires slowing down to see; some feelings need quiet to feel.
Xi Feng Water Town is worth your stay.