Xiamen Adventure Plan | Stop Seven: Zhongshan Road!

I moved to Zhenhai Road for elementary school and grew up near Zhongshan Road until I graduated from junior high. I'm very familiar with the nearby alleys. Shizi Street, Sixian Street, Shibei Street, Benbu Alley, Caopu Alley, Waiqing Alley, twisting and turning yet interconnected, a maze-like layout of alleys that always leads back to the starting point. The alleys house many famous people's former residences, with narrow stone walls and quaint stone paths silently telling stories of the past. Wang Renji's former residence, Ouyang Zhen's former residence, Chen Huacheng's former residence, and many more are located behind these alleys. Some have nearly a century of history, some have stone steles in front of their doors, and some just have simple signs. These former residences of famous people have been listed as historical and cultural relics, quietly witnessing generations grow up. There are also many temples and Buddha statues hidden in the alleys. Passing by the Yanshou Temple in Benbu Alley, one can still smell the scent of incense, and the Sixian Stone Statues on Sixian Street are also very popular. Most of the houses in the alleys are old private residences of Xiamen, some with simple cement stone walls, but there are also a few small villas with full Minnan architectural style. Red tile lofts are adorned with plants and flowers, and clothes drying in the sun give off a warm and homey feeling. Because not many outsiders come in, each alley is very quiet. The cats on the ground don't get startled by passersby, and people and animals coexist leisurely in the afternoon sun. Catching a glimpse of a corner of a small courtyard or windowsill, the simple yet romantic lifestyle reveals the plain but beautiful life of the people. During elementary school, we didn't have mobile phones for navigation, but everyone knew how to sneak from the alleys to Zhongshan Road pedestrian street, and how to take shortcuts to the immigration office. Now, Qunhui Elementary School has been renovated beyond recognition, no longer looking like what we remember. Both small playgrounds have been demolished, and the gate and the exterior of the school are more splendid. But what is touching is that the small shop and stationery store at the entrance have remained the same for over a decade. The Spring Festival is underway, and the nearby alleys are full of festive atmosphere. Compared to the high-rise residential areas, almost every household in the alleys has put up new Spring Festival couplets. Most people choose red hand-written brush couplets, with bold black characters adding a touch of authority to the small entrances. Although from the outside, the houses in the alleys mostly feel dated, with rusty iron doors and broken wooden doors, people still have a passion for life and a longing for the New Year. Seeing the new couplets and the word 'Fu' (fortune), one can tell at a glance that there are still people living in these houses, and they are full of vitality. If the hustle and bustle is the stereotype that Zhongshan Road leaves people with, then the old street area is like a brief pause in the system. Just turn a street corner, and you can see another side of Xiamen, this urban jungle. Only by exploring behind them can one truly appreciate the charm and the lively atmosphere of old Xiamen.