#worthitornot Rügen is touristy seaside Germany, but two sites on its north-south axis pulled me in opposite directions. Cape Arkona: I took the RB bus from Bergen to Putgarten (€2.80, Deutschlandticket valid), then the horse-drawn cart or 1.5 km walk to the Jaromarsburg cliff edge. Up there are two brick lighthouse towers and a WWI/WWII coastal battery bunker cut into the red chalk cliff—free to view from outside, €4 to climb the Leuchtturm. Wind 40 km/h, no rails on the cliff path, so keep kids leashed. Then I backtracked south to Prora, the 4.5 km-long Nazi "Kraft durch Freude" concrete holiday colossus built 1936–39 and never used. The Documentary Center inside one wing costs €12 (card ok), 90 minutes of excellent context; the rest of the slab is apartment blocks, a youth hostel, and a bare concrete corridor you can walk freely for free. I rented a bike in Binz (€13/day) and rode the 8 km beach path to Prora—flat, fast, seagulls. Mistake: I tried to combine Arkona and Prora in one afternoon by bus; Arkona needs 2 hours, Prora another 2.5, and the bus transfer via Sassnitz eats 50 minutes. Sleep in Binz. Worth it? Prora is unmissable for 20th-century architecture and the unease of walking a fascist resort that became East German barracks. Arkona's bunker is minor but the cliff itself is primeval. Question: does a 4.5 km empty concrete facade hit harder than a single preserved fort, or is scale just spectacle?