Strolling through Manjuelong

People say that Hangzhou city has three types of 'snow': the reed catkins in Xixi, known as 'autumn snow'; the plum blossoms on Lingfeng, known as 'fragrant snow'; and the osmanthus flowers in Manjuelong, known as 'golden snow'. The cultivation of osmanthus in West Lake began in the Tang Dynasty. Among the poems praising West Lake, many are themed around osmanthus. However, initially, the focus was on the osmanthus of the temples in the northern hills of West Lake, such as Lingyin and Tianzhu. The 'Manlong Guiyu' or 'Osmanthus Rain in Manjuelong' from the New Ten Scenes of West Lake, which refers to the appreciation of osmanthus in Manjuelong in autumn, only formed after the Ming Dynasty. Manjuelong, the valley between the Southern Peak and Baihe Peak, also had many temples in the past, with the earliest traceable to the Wu-Yue period. Among them was the Yuanxing Temple, which was renamed to Manjue Temple during the Northern Song Dynasty - 'Manjue' meaning 'complete enlightenment' - and the place also got its name from the temple. The osmanthus trees were likely planted by generations of monks and gradually became a magnificent sight. Today, along the mountain paths, slopes, stone cliffs, and beside the streams of the valley, there are over seven thousand osmanthus trees, many of which are over two hundred years old. However, those ancient temples have been destroyed and abandoned in the torrents of history, disappearing among the osmanthus bushes. Manjuelong is actually a natural village located southwest of West Lake, with tea trees covering the slopes and osmanthus trees planted along the valley paths. During the season of fragrant golden osmanthus from September to November, the sweet fragrance is overwhelming, and the delicate yellow flowers drift with the wind like dense raindrops. Visitors walking among them, bathed in the 'rain' and inhaling the fragrance, experience a unique pleasure, hence the name 'Osmanthus Rain in Manlong', one of the New Ten Scenes of West Lake. Manjuelong Village holds the West Lake Golden Autumn Osmanthus Festival every September and October. Manjuelong Road is perfect for a leisurely walk, to see the fragrant osmanthus, houses covered in vines, and the relaxed people sunbathing at their doorsteps. The entire Manjuelong Road is picturesque at every turn. The blooming and falling of the osmanthus flowers vary each year, so it's best to check Hangzhou local news or social platforms like Weibo for real-time updates before visiting. I went in late September and it was still too early; I didn't see the 'Osmanthus Rain', which was really a bit disappointing! But strolling in Manjuelong, letting time flow slowly, and stopping at a small mountain shop for a cup of coffee and some daydreaming is still quite enjoyable.