Songxi Ancient Village: A DIY guide to China's ancient towns
100 times quieter than Wuzhen! A complete 2-day, 1-night guide to Songxi, an 800-year-old stone village known as the "Karez of Jiangnan."
Hello, fellow travelers! I'm your old friend for all things ancient towns. If I had to recommend one ancient village in Zhejiang that surprised me the most, it would definitely be Songxi.
Many people head straight to Wuzhen or Xitang when visiting Jiangnan's ancient towns, unaware that hidden among the mountains of Pujiang, Jinhua, lies a nationally recognized historic and cultural village—a traditional Chinese ancient village. There are no bar streets or cheap trinkets here, just over 1,560 Ming and Qing dynasty houses, and two streams—one open and one hidden—flowing through the village. The best part? Admission is free, parking is free, and it's almost entirely uncommercialized.
In a nutshell: If Wuzhen is a polished version of Jiangnan and Xitang is a bustling market, then Songxi is a living, breathing ancient village that seems to have grown right out of the stone.
🚄 Transportation: Driving is best, but high-speed rail is also an option
· Driving (highly recommended): Just navigate to "Songxi Ancient Village." It takes about 1.5–2 hours from Hangzhou via the Hangjinqu Expressway, about 3.5 hours from Shanghai, about 1 hour from downtown Jinhua, and only 40 minutes from Yiwu. There is a free parking lot at the village entrance. ⚠️ We recommend arriving before 10:00 AM, as parking spaces are limited.
· High-speed rail + taxi: Take the high-speed rail to Pujiang Station, then take a taxi for about 25–30 minutes (costing 30–40 yuan). Alternatively, you can go to Yiwu Station, transfer to a shuttle bus to Pujiang, and then take a taxi.
· Bus: Take the "Pujiang–Zhengjiawu" intercity bus from Pujiang County and get off at the entrance of Songxi Village. The ride takes about 40 minutes.
🗺️ Highlights route (2–3 hours of leisurely strolling, easy pace)
Fangyuan Gate at the village entrance → Lijie Bridge Pavilion → Xu Ancestral Hall → Stroll along the Open Stream → Explore the Hidden Stream → Sifangli → Shao Ancestral Hall → Baizi Stone Alley
The whole route takes about 2–3 hours. For a deeper experience, you can hike up the Daling Ancient Trail for a panoramic view of the village's ink-wash painting scenery. We recommend entering the village around 7:00 AM to catch the thin mist, rising smoke, and beautiful light and shadows.
📸 Must-visit highlights (each one is legendary)
1. The Open and Hidden Streams—the soul of the ancient village (the "Karez of Jiangnan")
This is the most unique part of Songxi and a one-of-a-kind landscape in all of Zhejiang. The Open Stream (Front Stream) is clear and bright, flowing along the streets and alleys, with white walls and black tiles reflected in the water. The Hidden Stream (Back Stream) is a 700-meter-long underground stone culvert from the Southern Song Dynasty, where ancestors used arch technology to hide the entire stream beneath the village. In summer, the temperature feels at least 10 degrees cooler, and villagers move their tables and chairs directly into the Hidden Stream to cool off and play mahjong. ⚠️ The stone slabs inside the Hidden Stream are slippery year-round, so be sure to wear non-slip shoes and bring a light jacket.
2. Fangyuan Gate and Lijie Bridge—"Go out to explore the world, return home for reunion"
There are gates on the east and west sides of the bridge pavilion at the village entrance—a square gate on the east and a round gate on the west. The old tradition: leave through the square gate in the morning, symbolizing "going out into the world and being upright in character"; return through the round gate in the evening, symbolizing "reunion at home." Lijie Bridge was built in the Southern Song Dynasty, and a water pavilion was added during the Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty.
3. Baizi Stone Alley—a unique texture created by lime burning
Since the Northern Song Dynasty, Songxi has been a famous village for the lime industry. Villagers built walls using the waste residue from burning lime, stacking dark red, grayish-brown, and blue-gray pebbles together, which are known as "Baizi stones." Wearing a light-colored dress while taking photos in the alley creates a stunning color contrast.
4. Xu Ancestral Hall and Shao Ancestral Hall—the essence of ancient architecture
The Xu Ancestral Hall features flying eaves, bracket sets, and exquisite wood carvings; the Shao Ancestral Hall has well-preserved Qing Dynasty murals with beautiful color schemes. The century-old ancient stage inside the Xu Ancestral Hall has become a popular photo spot after being used as a filming location for the short drama "ENEMY."
5. 1,560 Ming and Qing dynasty houses—the largest ancient architectural complex in central Zhejiang
Songxi boasts the best-preserved and largest ancient architectural complex in central Zhejiang. Over 1,560 Ming and Qing dynasty houses are distributed in a continuous area, with stone walls and black tiles, naturally possessing the texture of an ink-wash painting. It's not the stereotypical white walls and black tiles, but a village that seems to have grown out of the stone.
🍜 A taste of Songxi (30–50 yuan per person)
· Iced Mulian jelly: 5 yuan per cup, a local specialty that is refreshing and cuts through greasiness
· Pujiang wheat cake / Preserved vegetable wheat cake: Thin crust with fragrant filling, crispy and flaky
· Handmade Suo noodles / Single-strand noodles: Handmade to order with a chewy texture
· Ash-lye cake: A Pujiang specialty, can be stir-fried or served in soup
· Clear beef soup: Fresh, tender beef with a rich broth
· Free-range chicken pot / Zezi tofu: Home-style dishes from local farmhouses
🏠 Accommodation: Stay in a century-old house
We highly recommend staying for one night! Enjoy the empty ancient alleys in the early morning and fall asleep to the sound of the stream at night.
· Farmhouse inns at the village entrance: 80–120 yuan/night per person. Most hosts are local villagers who can cook authentic Pujiang dishes.
· Ancient house homestays in the village: 180–300 yuan/night per person. These are renovated Ming and Qing dynasty houses that retain wooden beams, courtyards, and carved windows.
· Recommendations: Songxi Renjia (renovated ancient house), Xishan Shendu (designer homestay), Songxi Shanfang (the only cafe in the village).
· ⚠️ Most ancient house homestays are located in the alleys and cannot be reached directly by car. If you have a lot of luggage, you can contact the owner in advance for pick-up/drop-off.
💡 Practical tips (must-read to avoid pitfalls)
1. Admission: Completely free. Open all day, no admission fees, no fees for small attractions.
2. Best time to visit: September–November for crisp autumn weather; around 7:00 AM for the best photos of thin mist and rising smoke; spring and autumn are the most comfortable, but summer is actually the most worthwhile because of the "natural air conditioning" of the Hidden Stream.
3. Clothing: You must wear non-slip shoes. The stone roads and the Hidden Stream are slippery year-round; bring a light jacket (the temperature in the Hidden Stream is low); mosquito repellent is a must (dense vegetation); sun protection (the stone roads have strong reflections).
4. Photo outfits: Plain-colored traditional Chinese style, Hanfu, or cotton and linen are a perfect match for the stone village; light-colored dresses look amazing in Baizi Stone Alley.
5. Gear: Bring a flashlight (for photos in the Hidden Stream); bring your own snacks and drinks (there are few shops in the village).
6. Protect historical sites: The century-old walls are fragile, please do not touch or bump into them.
7. Nearby attractions: Can be combined with a one-day trip to Jiangnan No. 1 Family, Tongji Lake, and Xianhua Mountain.
This thousand-year-old stone village, hidden among the mountains of Jinhua, has no admission fees and no crowded tourist hordes. It only has the thousand-year flow of the Open and Hidden Streams, the ink-wash texture of 1,560 Ming and Qing dynasty houses, and the unique texture of Baizi Stone Alley. In September, Songxi is crisp and cool with few tourists—before it gets crowded, hurry up and arrange a spontaneous, healing trip to the ink-wash Jiangnan!
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