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ARCHER MATHIS

The past and present of Kathmandu, as if in a different world through the passage of time

Passing through the crowded and bustling Asan Street from the Tamil quarter, you arrive at Kathmandu Durbar Square. Under the wide eaves of the temples, vendors with smiling faces sell a variety of goods, from bed sheets and duvet covers to strings of marigolds, from small dishes folded from broad leaves to cinnabar and Himalayan rock salt, from Nepalese flags to copper utensils of all kinds, offering an extensive range of items. Travelers, devotees, vendors, the elderly, and the young sit scattered on the steps of the temples, looking from afar like birds perched, vacant and leisurely. And I, lost among the piles of ancient buildings, see through my lens the past and present of Kathmandu, as if in a different world... Regarding Kathmandu Durbar Square, here is a brief introduction: Kasthamandap: Also known as the Maru Sattal, Kathmandu's name is derived from it, with 'Kastha' meaning 'covered by wood' and 'mandap' meaning 'shelter, rest room'. Local legend has it that it was built in the 12th century from a single Sal tree. Archaeological research following the collapse due to the 2015 earthquake suggests that Kasthamandap dates back to the 7th century. Kumari Ghar: The temple of the living goddess Kumari, located opposite the European-style city hall. In Nepal, the 'living goddess' is known as Kumari (meaning virgin goddess) and is revered by both Hindus and Buddhists. From the king to the common people, the worship of the 'living goddess' is very devout. According to Hindu scriptures, the goddess is an incarnation of the goddess of wisdom and a symbol of the god of strength. The 'living goddess' is believed to be the divine source of royal power and protection, as well as a pillar of spiritual support for her followers. She is embodied by a prepubescent virgin and is considered the incarnation of the goddess Taleju, the guardian of the royal family. Maru Ganesh Temple: Located in the small square on the southwest side, the temple is very small with a little golden dome, surrounded by an iron fence, with female devotees sitting inside, and opposite there is a golden mouse, the mount of the elephant god Gabesh. Maju Dega: With white walls, black pillars, and red tiles, it is a very tall temple that can be seen from every corner of the square. The steps are filled with colorful people. Seto Bhairab: Also known as White Bhairab, this is a huge golden mask placed inside a wooden lattice window. Bhairab is one of the incarnations of Shiva. During the Indra Jatra festival, the window opens and beer flows out through a tube from the mouth for devotees to taste, hence it is also known as the god of alcohol. Jagannath Temple: The entire temple is carved with 'adult-themed' wood carvings on its pillars. If you look closely, the content is quite rich, and this area is also the most famous view of the entire Durbar Square. Kala Bhairab: In front of the stone sculpture of Black Bhairab, there are devotees offering worship, but they cannot approach the sculpture directly. Only two staff members can place offerings for them, for which they charge a small fee. Taleju Temple: The tallest temple in the square, with a luxurious golden roof, but it is not open to the public and only accepts devotees during the Dashain festival. Hanuman Dhoka: The Hanuman Dhoka Palace collapsed in the 2015 earthquake and was rebuilt with the help of China. At the entrance, there is a statue of Hanuman, its face covered in cinnabar.
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*Created by local travelers and translated by AI.
Posted: Apr 9, 2024
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